Living close to places of interest often means we pass them by, assuming we’ll get round to visiting some time or another, which is what has happened with me and Chichester Cathedral. I had never been inside, until this week when, after meeting friends for lunch in the town, I remedied this oversight. On first impression, the interior is very much like any other cathedral – except that there is a rather stunning altar piece tapestry designed by John Piper, paintings by Patrick Procktor and Graham Sutherland and a beautiful stained glass window by Marc Chagall.
Depiction of Psalm 150, Marc Chagall, Chichester Cathedral
This immediately brought to mind an outing I took last year with my mother – on her suggestion that she and I visit a tiny church in the Kent village of Tudeley. She had been before, and thought I’d be interested.
I was. I was astonished.
All Saints’ Tudeley
Views across the Weald of Kent
All Saints’ Tudeley sits nestled in beautiful countryside, overlooking the Weald. From the outside, although pretty, it looks similar to many other small churches in this area, but inside…well, the inside is unbelievable.
The walls are whitewashed which complements the stonework and instantly this evokes an airy atmosphere of meditative calm.
Light through the windows onto white walls and honeyed stonework
The windows, all twelve of them, were designed by Marc Chagall. It is the only church in the world to have all its windows decorated by the Russian artist – and it’s only here in the UK and in Chichester where his stained glass can be appreciated.
Chagall was originally commissioned to design the east window at Tudeley in 1963 for Sir Henry and Lady d’Avigdor-Goldsmid in memory of their daughter.
Window commissioned as a memorial to a drowned daughter
He had been searching for a place of worship in which to display his stained glass since being disappointed at his artificially lit windows, depicting the Twelve Tribes of Israel, at the synagogue of the Hassadah Medical Centre in Jerusalem. When he arrived at Tudeley for the inauguration in 1967, he was so taken by its simplicity and natural light that he agreed to decorate all the windows.
An abstraction of butterflies
The final windows to be installed, those of the chancel, were fitted in 1985 – the year of Chagall’s death.
Find out more about the church at Tudeley here.
Churches seem to house the most unexpected works of art which, unless you visit on the off chance and discover them for yourself or you hear by word of mouth, these treasures are likely to remain hidden forever.
John Piper’s tapestry at the altar, Chichester Cathedral
Noli me Tangere, by Graham Sutherland, tucked away in Chichester Cathedral
Read more about Chichester Cathedral here.
Thanks for sharing these stunning photos, Jenny. The stained glass is magnificent! Your comment about living near places you never visit resonated with me. I grew up in the Washington, D.C. area with all the museums and monuments under my nose, but most of the time I went was when we had company from out of town.
I think having folks to stay is a good way of making us visit our local area and then see things through their eyes. We all take what’s on our doorstep for granted.
I’m not remotely religious but I do enjoy visiting churches for their beauty in art, sculpture, and architecture. Amazing that Chagall decorated all the windows of a tiny church in Kent.
Until I read your post I didn’t have any idea that Chagall had done windows in UK churches, so good post and thanks for today’s learning.
Glad to reciprocate – I’ve learned a lot about the current state of affairs in Gibraltar thanks to you.
Whenever we visit anywhere, we always look at the churches although, like you, we are not at all religious, so quite why I hadn’t done one of our nearest cathedrals beats me.
The Chagall windows are stunning, and nicely captured in your photos. You have written another travel piece that makes me want to pop over to Kent. Maybe I could revisit Westbrook at the same time.
Chagall was one of the first abstract painters whose work captivated me. Great post
I’m going to have you running all over the country… Tate Liverpool has a Chagall exhibition running until 6th October – a short detour if you do visit Another Place at Crosby!
Oh Jenny, what a small world and what a lovely, fascinating post! I must share…my dear Granny lived in Chichester for 35 years until she died at the age of 94 in 2002! From a young girl to adulthood and taking my own children to visit her there I have so many wonderful memories of my time spent there with her! We always used to take a walk into the City and go around the walls. We visited the Cathedral there a good few times. I haven’t been back to Chichester since then but I hold very treasured memories of it in my heart…
You are absolutely right about the hidden treasures in churches. Loved your photos and the village and church of All Saints’ Tudeley but I don’t think we ever went there or I would have remembered it, it’s stunning, beautiful stained glass windows which I love!
We did visit the Roman Palace at Fishbourne a few times though but it is so true about not visiting places right under our noses!
Looks like you are enjoying some lovely summer days out, and what lovely weather we are having once again 🙂
I love these sort of coincidences – I had a similar one recently with another blogger – we discovered we had lived within a few miles of each other as children! I’ve been to Fishbourne Roman Palace a few times too – as an extra adult on a school trip and subsequently with my son who was fascinated with Roman history when he was younger and encouraged by his Dad who sometimes acts as if he’s on Time Team. He doesn’t wear stripey jumpers, though.
We are having a wonderful August, weather wise – there’s nothing for us Brits to complain about!
I agree with you. We have so much to see nearby. I really enjoyed reading about both churches as that is one of my real interests. Last year I went on a NADFAS trip to churches in Kent, sadly not the one you mentioned, but all three were fascinating in their own way. I have been trying to recall, since I read this yesterday, the name of the poem, – possibly Robert Graves? about the couple’s tomb in Chichester cathedral. Perhaps you know the one I mean?
I didn’t know the poem you mentioned, but after googling it found out that it’s Larkin’s ‘An Arundel Tomb.’ I’d never read it until this morning – thanks for that!
I know zip about art but the Chagali work immediately reminded me of Harry Clarke’s, with his amazing blues. Chichester I’ll get to one day.
Well, I had never heard of Harry Clarke so I’ve just spent a very interesting and informative half hour finding out about him – I agree that his blue stained glass is stunning. Thanks for the tip off Roy- isn’t blogging wonderful!
You’ve inspired me to do 2 things (well, 3 if you count that now I have to figure out how to spend some time in England–I’ve been through much of Western Europe, but sadly never saw more than Heathrow of England): 1) I’m going to re-read a book I first read back in 1992, written by author/professor Susan Toth from my home state of Minnesota, “My love affair with England;” and 2) I’m going to start nosing around New England (where I now live) to see what treasures we have tucked away in old churches (of course, our old churches are just young-‘uns when “oldness” is calculated by European standards)
Well, thank you Tracy – it’s nice to think I’ve inspired your own local journey – I hope to be reading about your adventures on your blog. I’ve never been to New England but have heard it’s extremely beautiful, especially in the autumn (fall) – pictures please!
Jenny, these are stunning pictures. I love them all, but I keep going back to the All Saints’ Tudeley and the cemetery. So calm, peaceful and classic in beauty and color. We went to a funeral last month, and the burial was at a cemetery where the new highway had expanded to two sides, right up to the stone wall, and already someone had sprayed grafitti. Your pictures are a hopeful reminder that some final resting places are true resting places.
We are lucky in our part of the country to have so many picturesque places in such beautiful countryside. I don’t think my picture shows the wonderful view across the Weald – also known as ‘the larder of England’ as it is crammed with orchards and farmland as well as the famous Kentish hops – used in beer making!
Fantastic pics. Don`t know how I`m missing your posts-I`ve been following but somehow, they`re not coming up on my wordpress reader. Sigh. But nevermind, I`ll enjoy catching up.
Interesting to see how well stained glass photographs too, of course. I`ve never been to Chichester so I appreciate the insights into your world.
Thank you! I too am enjoying glimpses into other people’s worlds – and as I have never yet been to Ireland your posts are giving me more than a tasty morsel.
I had the same problem with my WP reader – and then suddenly it seemed to work, so thanks for visiting, hope to see you again 🙂
I love Marc Chagall! So interesting!! I did not know, even with all my art schooling (a lot) that he did these! Thank you!
It would be so easy to just drive past that little church and not know they were there – no advertising, nothing – which makes it all the more special when you walk in and see all this wonderful light pouring through the windows like a kaleidoscope.
Yes!
I really enjoy these posts, Jenny!
Thanks Lynette – we’ve missed you!