Having made sense of my notes and with the reviving benefit of double shot espresso, let’s cross the High Street and head for Guildford Castle. The Great Tower looms over the landscape, affording great views of the town from the top. Restored in 2003/4 visitors can see a model of the castle as it would have been in the 1300’s and buy souvenirs from the modest gift shop.
Although there is no documentary evidence, it’s almost certain that the castle was built soon after the Norman Conquest of 1066. At that time Guildford was one of only two towns in Surrey (the other was Southwark – long since swallowed up by the sprawl of South London). Holding a strategic place on the route between the capital and the south coast, and being on a hill, Guildford was an obvious place to build a castle. Built from local Bargate stone, the walls retain the honeyed tone that graces many of our local buildings.
By the thirteenth century, the castle had been taken over by Henry III, from whence it was referred to as a palace. He made alterations and improvements which included a set of rooms for his son, Edward I and new daughter-in-law Eleanor of Castile, as well as more accommodation for his own queen’s knights.
You can read more about the history of the castle here.
Opposite the castle grounds, high up on the wall of the small modern shopping mall known as Tunsgate, is this sundial by local artist, the late Ann Garland, showing Edward and Eleanor. As I have a bit of a penchant for sundials I’m pleased to be able to include this one here.
Before we move on I think the castle grounds deserve a special mention – they are maintained by the Borough Council and are kept in immaculate condition, supplying an ever changing variety of flowers through the seasons. This picture shows parts of the old wall, near Castle Arch.
Being so close to the busy town centre it’s a good place to come for some peace and quiet, with a good book and a picnic lunch but we don’t have time for that now – come on, I’ve a riddle for you.
I wasn’t going to single out any of Guildford’s many quirky little shops – I wouldn’t know where to start – however this one might give you a clue to the identity of a famous author with connections to the town.
Is the name on the tip of your tongue? Perhaps this little statue will help. Created by local sculptor Edwin Russell and cast in bronze, this sculpture of Alice and the White Rabbit was unveiled in 1984. It is situated on the banks of the river Wey, between the theatre and the auction house.
Although Lewis Carroll never lived in Guildford, as head of the family after his father died, he was made liable for the wellbeing of his six unmarried sisters so he purchased a house here and made frequent visits.
(I wonder if this weight of responsibility was the reason for his alleged dabbling with opium? Just a thought … ).
Right – that just about wraps up the town centre for now but there’s somewhere else I want to show you. We’ll have to jump in the car – it’s not far, it’s not old but it’s on the way home. Can you guess where we are going?
Guildford Cathedral is some way out of the centre. Sitting majestically on top of Stag Hill next to the main London to Portsmouth road link it can be seen on the skyline from miles around and the closer we get, the more formidable the building becomes.
If you are a fan of horror films it may even look familiar because, against better judgement at the time, it was used as the location in The Omen where the possessed Damian throws a tantrum and refuses to go to church. You can watch the original clip here. Unsurprisingly, this connection has had a negative backlash over the years, which is a shame as Guildford Cathedral is actually a beautiful place with some interesting recent history.
The diocese of Guildford was created in 1927 when it split from the auspices of Winchester. A competition for the design of a new cathedral was announced and won by one Edward Maufe (who would later be knighted and become a Royal Academician). The Stag Hill site was donated by the Earl of Onslow and building began in 1936. With the outbreak of war in 1939, work on the cathedral had to stop. The structure, only partly roofed, was boarded up.
After the war, building permits were only given for housing needs: work on the cathedral would not be resumed until 1952. However, the original budget of £250,000 was by then completely inadequate so a massive fund raising drive was put into action. People were invited to ‘buy a brick’ to help finish their cathedral. Over 200,000 members of the public purchased a brick for half a crown (12½p), work continued and Guildford Cathedral was finally consecrated in 1961 by the Bishop of Guildford, in the presence of the Queen.
Inside, the cathedral is light and uncluttered. On the day I visited, it couldn’t really be called peaceful as there were builders in repairing damage to the roof on the southern side, sustained in the recent storms, but as in all places of worship, there was that unerring air of calm.
As I walked down the Nave towards the altar I was struck by the assortment of kneelers and discovered later that there are 1400 of them, all different. This one caught my eye – rather appropriate, considering.
The Cathedral plays host to ever changing art exhibitions. On the wall here below the organ pipes are two paintings by the artist Chris Gollon, from his series ‘Incarnation, Mary and Women from the Bible.’
Through those three arch ways is the Chapel of the Queen’s Royal Surrey Regiment (I love how the light is flooding in here), while behind me is the Children’s Chapel – one of very few in the country and where this little cross hangs, as if floating in mid air, in a small lighted alcove.
So there’s a glimpse of Guildford Cathedral for you. At this point, I’m sorry to say that I have some technical problems with my camera. (I shall call it Damian from now on). There’s still the Lady Chapel (used for every day worship), the Baptistry and the High Altar to see, so if you’d like to have a look, click here to go to their website where a virtual tour is available.
As I drive home, there’s one thing bothering me about my Guildford visit. (Apart from Damian). Guildford is the county town of Surrey; it has a cathedral, Surrey University and the new Surrey Sport’s Park where some of our athletes trained for London 2012. It has culture, history and a diverse business centre.
Why then, is Guildford not a city? Once home, after a bit of rummaging I find out that to be a city a royal charter must be granted and for some reason, despite its historical royal connections, Guildford has never had this honour bestowed. Apparently the Borough Council have applied several times without success and the current thinking is – do we really need the label anyway?
Probably not – the town seems to rub along quite nicely without it thank you very much – and how much difference would it actually make? While we all ponder that one, I’m off to make that very British of institutions – a cup of tea.
Where shall we go to next?
I went there for an interview once. (local paper, Guildford whatever). It didn’t look a bit like that!! There was nothing to see when I was wandering around. Glad I didn’t get the job at the time. Nasty shoppin centre.
You were obviously looking in the wrong places – and find me a town that doesn’t have its down side. Even parts of Bath are grotty.
I’ve really enjoyed this walkabout, Jenny. Thanks for sharing.
Well, thanks for joining me Gwen – it’s always good to have you along. 🙂
I thought the cathedral looked familiar, Jenny. I can certainly understand the negative backlash. I doubt I would be brave enough to venture inside; the movie was too creepy for my taste.
Thank you for sharing Part 2 of your excursion. I loved the photos, especially the emerald green castle grounds…beautiful!
You’re welcome Jill – thanks for coming with me – and the church is definitely less creepy inside than out. The film certainly did not do it any favours!
Ooo, I can relate so well to Lewis Carroll, Jenny, his sense of fun and slant on life is wonderful, I say ‘is’ instead of ‘was’ for his work lives on, enchanting so many minds. I’m whispering now in the Cathedral, (always my response), so beautiful, and so glad that people responded to the appeal to buy a brick to enable the building to be finished. What’s in a label of City anyway, as you so rightly say, in fact are there any extra benefits I wonder? I shall Google, for I always want to know the answer ASAP. Many thanks for the continuing tour guide, you’re doing a marvellous job. (I always wonder at etiquette, does one tip after each part or only at the completion? 🙂 ) I shall follow your lead….onwards… xPenx
Google came up with :-
What Makes a City Different from a Town?
Answer
A city is a relatively large and permanent settlement, particularly a large urban settlement while a town is a human settlement bigger than a village but smaller than a city.
Not very clear is it? 😦
Enchanted is the right word, Pen – Lewis Carroll had an amazing imagination. Did you see Johnny Depp as the Mad Hatter?
It’s very kind of you to say that I’m doing a marvellous job – that’s worth more than a tip, so I’ll let you off. Plus you’ve supplied your own information. What more can one ask of a travel companion? Thanks for coming along today 🙂
ah, Johnny …he’s one of my favourite actors, Jenny, purely for his acting talent of course. (sigh!!) I have the Alice In Wonderland DVD and it’s almost worn out. Helena Bonham Carter was magnificent too, as the Red Queen, such a BIG head 🙂 I shall be back for the next tour guide . xx
I have a bit of a penchant for sundials too so I’m glad you shared this one. I can’t recall seeing it. I never went up to the castle grounds either – my mistake, they do look lovely and peaceful, and as for the cathedral, nope, didn’t peek inside that though passed it hundreds of times! And what fab light coming in as you have so cleverly captured! Brilliantly told Jenny, if you ever get fed up of school you’ll make a good town guide 🙂
Do you think I’d need a uniform? Thanks Jude, it was fun checking out my home town properly, I feel as if I know it well now – it’s only taken twenty five years!
I love the story about Guildford Cathedral and the Omen. Great blog as always Jenny.
Thanks Dylan. I liked the Omen story too. Gives it a bit of edge.
Lovely journey. I want to be there. I have a friend on her way to England tomorrow (London and Bath). If I were going, I’d skip those and head to Guildford. I always more enjoy the quieter, less touristy areas of a country.
About Guildford not being granted a city title: I’ve been thinking about awards, titles, honors–and what they mean. I’ve tended to spurn them most of my life, feeling that the politics involved aren’t worth the effort (and sometimes the compromises). And, as more and more awards, honors, titles and degrees are granted, their value diminishes (just as inflation has the effect of diminishing the value of money). I wonder what would happen if we all started judging a thing, a place, a person on its actual performance and merits, instead of by its resume.
I’d recommend Bath too. I have a friend there which is great – she knows all the best places to go as well as the ones on the tourist trail. It is a beautiful city.
We’re on the same wave length again as far as awards/titles go – I don’t see the point either. As I said at the end of my post – what would it actually achieve for the town? Funding? Would tourism increase overnight? No, no and no. Same way as I think we dish out ‘house points’ for our school children far too freely – they should have to earn them!
And sports trophies/medals. I think we ought to teach children to play sports for the pleasure of playing sports and being fit. I don’t think it’s a good idea to teach them that we play to get trophies.
Hear, Hear! 🙂
I remember Damien and “The Omen.” And the Cathedral certainly looked familiar. But how lovely inside.
I did an entire exhibition of paintings of The Virgin Mary a while ago. I was so excited that the Cathedral shows art. I was raised in the Episcopal Church, not Catholic. Just a spiritual connection, really.
My husband will be so happy to hear about the story of Lewis Carroll. I love the sculpture. But he really will be excited, as he is a big Alice person. And yes, caring for that many siblings…..he wouldn’t be able to write, therefore, why not have a hit or two, now and again? I am just empathic, that’s all. 🙂
I must tell you – when he was very small, I photographed Son with that Alice sculpture and entered the photo into a competition in a local paper – which I won! The prize was a camera – but it was a much more basic model than the one I was already using. My moment of glory was dashed: I felt cheated.
It’s lovely that the cathedral runs these exhibitions. I forgot to mention that there’s a decent café just outside too – somewhere to spend a chilled out morning.
I’ve been visiting Guildford for over thirty years but wasn’t aware the castle had been recently rejuvenated, definitely will review this Spring. Nor have I been tempted to the Cathedral, making your description all the more interesting. Love the Omen clip. Looking forward to the next blog Jenny, maybe Kingston or Godalming?
Thank you Diane. It’s funny, isn’t it – we all go off on holidays and seek these sorts of places out, take lots of pictures, remember them, and we take no notice of what is right on our doorstep. We always check out churches when we visit foreign cities – it’s like the starting point somehow. The cathedral really is worth a look sometime.
Thanks for sharing part two of your tour, Jenny – it’s been really enjoyable and enlightening.
Thanks Andrea – glad I helped to change your view about Guildford 🙂
I love this post Jenny and I was amazed to read about the Cathedral and The Omen. I love that film, it scares me still (big fan of horror films here!) and I remember that scene where Damien goes into a frenzy in front of a church but never knew until reading your post that it was in Guildford! Who knew?? It is a very unusual looking Cathedral isn’t it, and I can see why it would have had the backlash although it is unfair. I love your photo of the light shining through the windows particularly. Away with all that darkness I say 🙂
Like you, I adore sundials, have one in my garden (not like this one I might add!) and this part two tour of Guildford. You are so good at this!
Butting in, I would say the same about Bath, which of course is only an hour away from us, I was there not long ago actually. Beautiful place.
I have heard about a town having to be granted the title of city but I wish I could remember which other town it was that has the same situation as Guildford. Will probably remember it at 3 am…although I agree with you, there doesn’t seem to be a need for it. Oh and one more thing, I also didn’t know that Southwark used to one of two towns in Surrey! So you see Jenny, I learnt an awful lot from you today, thank you.
Fab post and photos 🙂
It’s not the loveliest looking of buildings, I have to say – a bit austere, but inside makes up for it as it is surprisingly light, which I always like in a church.When they allowed the filming they obviously weren’t looking much further than the loaded collection plate which was clearly short-sighted 🙂
Bath is a really beautiful city – different again and lots of history as well as brilliant shopping. We went to the Christmas market there one year and it was magical.
As for Southwark – who’d have thought? It’s amazing what you find out, isn’t it! 🙂
Hmmm… good point about the collection plate 😉
And yes, it really is fascinating to learn all these new facts…another wonderful benefit of blogging 🙂
My strongest impression is that folks in your little town have a great respect of and love for history. Everything is so well preserved and taken care of (the gardens you show, especially). I’m jealous. D
That’s a lovely impression that I’ve left you with – I’m pleased I’ve given a good account of the place. Talking to a couple of (local) colleagues this morning, we reckon we are very fortunate to have such an interesting town on our doorstep. Of course it has its modern side and some places which really wouldn’t warrant a photograph – but then who’s to say in years to come these places won’t appeal in some way?
Very enlightening – beautifully crafted post. I was fascinated by the Winchester connection as my late brother worked at Winchester Cathedral for about 30 years. I am sorry to say I still prefer the architecture of WC but all of these old towns and cities are a delight to visit. I went into Hereford Cathedral last year as Molesworth 1 was a chorister there 50 years ago. Wonderful place but the rest of the place is rather tired nowadays. Yet it is a city not a town. Very odd. Do you have any nice antiquarian book shops for me to play in?
Thank you Andrew – and I agree about the architecture. Guildford is definitely rather plain – not a gargoyle in sight – and not the most attractive modern church I’ve been to (that would probably have to go to the Catholic Cathedral in Liverpool which I absolutely loved) but I like the contrast with the town centre.
I’m off to explore Winchester in a few weeks, with a friend. We want to see the art in the Cathedral – but it’s closed at the moment because of the flooding. Watch this space though – hopefully there will be some coverage 🙂
Do go to the Triforium Museum. My brother set it up.
I most definitely will. I’ve checked it out on the internet today and it looks wonderful. Thanks for the heads up on that one – I shall report back as and when.
Another nice post Jenny, and the cathedral is a surprise. Certainly worth the detour out of town. Interesting about the split from Winchester – Jersey has recently also scuttled away (to Canterbury).
Thanks Roy. Winchester is next on my cathedral list – am hoping to visit by the end of March when I can also check out the festival in June. Very interested to go on the Saturday. Will let you know 🙂
I always have to laugh here in Canada, the definition of City is based on population – here it is for Manitoba per wikipedia: “A city is an incorporated urban municipality in the Canadian province of Manitoba.[1] In Manitoba, an urban municipality must have a minimum population of 7,500 to be named a city.[2]
I loved part two of your tour. Hope you enjoyed the tea – and that Damien is fixed again. Is it easy to have an exorcism done on a camera?’
Damian received a jolly good thrashing once we got home. It’s happened before – just plays dead although it isn’t. Have to fiddle technically with the battery and plug it in again. Seems to then reset itself. Very annoying. An exorcism would be the answer.
7,500? That’s a hamlet over here. 🙂
Even before I read it, I KNEW it had to be the scene from the OMEN! Amazing.
And some of the other more eerie pictures actually seem less sinister–the OMEN made quite an impression.
Maybe it’s just as well that Guildford isn’t actually designated as an official city, Jenny. Cities are high over rated, and as is Guildford is wonderful.
Do you know – I’m so pleased I spent the day wandering around the town rather than dashing in as I usually do to go shopping. (Which couldn’t anyway, because of lack of card!). I picked up so much new information I went home feeling like I’d had a holiday!
Your travel posts are so great! 🙂 (So are your other posts but I particularly like the travel/history/art posts!) Perhaps you could continue out in a circle for your next post?
That is such an encouraging comment, Lynette – thank you very much! I do enjoy a bit of research mixed in with a bit of travel so yes, there will be more coming up in the near future as I have a couple of ‘outings’ with friends arranged to fairly local places of potential interest. Is that the kind of thing you meant by ‘circle?’ 🙂
Yes it is. Having re-read my last comment, I now realize how cryptic I sound – apologies! 🙂
Lovely. Sigh…
Thank you for dropping by – I appreciate your appreciation 🙂
WOW! once again you have garnered a lot of comments. Not surprising. I am amazed at the amount of history there is all tied up in your hometown. Like I mentioned in response to the previous post, that contrasts very much with where I live where the recorded history of human doings is pretty recent.
That’s an excellent job you have done 🙂
Ah, thanks Maurice. I think you are partly responsible for inspiring me to do this – I always enjoy travelling around your part of the world with your own blog tours. Spending the day in Guildford and looking at it through the eyes of a tourist was enjoyable and enlightening – makes me properly appreciate where we live. Now I’m going to have to seek out other local places of interest and treat them in the same way – this is better than going on holiday 🙂
I totally agree. Taking a good second look at things we otherwise take for granted is such a rich and surprising pleasure!
My, judging from all those comments, you`ve had a full bus for your continued tour of Guildford. Just popping on board as a latecomer. Hope you don`t mind! Some inspiring planting going on in Guildford, I see. And that Cathedral interior is pretty awe inspiring too. Thank you for the trip!
Hi RH. Just about to read the write-up of your latest secret mission. Glad you caught my bus – just in time!