When I started my first school, at the age of five, Dad seemed very excited to hear that I had been placed in “Churchill” – one of four houses our tiny school was divided into for Sport’s Day events or collecting merit points. The houses were each designated a colour and I was to wear blue webbing bands which, because blue was – and still is – my favourite colour, pleased me more than its name which at that time held little significance.
The houses were named after famous local residents – and Winston Churchill had his country retreat less than five miles away. As children we drove past the place often; were taken there for outings; were told stories of a great man who had lived there.
During the war Dad was a despatch rider for the Royal Signals. He would regularly make trips to Chartwell to deliver documents or papers and of course always held Winston in very high esteem. He got to know that part of the countryside pretty well and it is probably part of the reason he decided to buy the virtually derelict house he did in the 1950’s which was to become our family home for over thirty years.
This year marks the fiftieth anniversary of Winston Churchill’s death. Time, then, to revisit.
Chartwell sits behind a high stone wall down a narrow winding lane with far reaching views across the Kentish Weald. Winston bought the place in 1922 and it provided a sanctuary for him, his wife Clementine and their children away from London and matters of state.
When World War Two ended in 1945 the Churchills were not confident they could afford to keep the place going but a consortium of friends got together and shored things up for them with the proviso that the property be bequeathed to the National Trust on the deaths of Winston and Clementine. The Trust is now custodian of this quirky yet highly personal house and its magnificently sweeping gardens and I’m pleased to say that I was able to gain free entry for two using my marvellous National Art Pass.
Our walk started with a gentle stroll down towards the lake where black swans can be spotted if you’re lucky. Following a rough path around the water’s edge brings you to a small clearing where a sculpture of Winston and Clementine Churchill is situated showing them sitting together looking towards their beloved house. The art work is by sculptor Oscar Nemon and was unveiled by the Queen Mother in 1990.
Carry on past the sculpture and you reach wild woodland to the south-east edge of the estate. The path here winds uphill through beech and bluebell woods to where a unit of Royal Canadian Engineers camped out during World War Two. These troops set about camouflaging Chartwell, hiding the swimming pool, draining the reservoir and disguising the lakes with brushwood, keeping the place safe from possible aerial attack. Apparently Winston was mightily relieved that his precious goldfish were not in immediate danger.
Returning downhill from the site of the Canadian camp, the house comes into view across the fields and sloping lawns.
Inside, the house is a delight – the rooms have been maintained almost as they would have been when the Churchills were in residence: some personal things remain – Winston’s slippers, for instance. Sadly, photography is not allowed, but you can click here to view interiors from the National Trust’s website.
According to the National Trust’s blurb the house is ‘of little architectural merit’ having been added to and changed over the years by various occupants – Churchill included. When he bought Chartwell he opened up some of the darker rooms by installing large casement windows, making the most of its position overlooking some of Britain’s finest green and pleasant land. It was this view that enticed him to Chartwell in the first place and one of which he never tired.
“A day away from Chartwell is a day wasted.” (Winston Churchill)
This view point overlooks the miles of rolling countryside stretching towards the English Channel that fired Churchill’s fierce resolve to keep Britain safe from invasion. In the centre of the photograph is the wall around the kitchen garden which he helped to build – at a reported two hundred bricks a day.
Through the arched gateway is Winston’s art studio, left as if he has just popped out for an amble around his garden.
He spent hours here painting, finding the relaxation it derived a perfect antidote for the famous depression he suffered and which he referred to as his ‘ black dog.’ One of his paintings, of his goldfish pond, sold at Sotheby’s for £1.8m last December. Now, having seen his collection of paintings in the studio (sadly, no photos allowed here either), while they are the dedicated work of a very enthusiastic and prolific amateur, I’m not sure the price the painting fetched at auction is justified, other than the fact it is by Churchill. Here’s a photographic representation of his painting, as near as I could get …
So much has been written about Churchill: his policies, political leanings, the crossing twice of the House of Commons from Conservative to Liberal and back again, his failures and his triumphs, his family, his speeches and most of all his determination to never surrender to a Nazi invasion. Without his dogged and ruthless determination to plan and implement the Battle for Normandy, which the French will be commemorating this weekend, the course of the war would no doubt have been different. And while we cannot forget the tremendous sacrifice made by Allied troops on D-Day – 6th June 1944- and in the days following – perhaps a silent salute to Winston wouldn’t go amiss.
Enjoying your freedom? Thank a veteran.
VERY enjoyable tour, Jenny – thanks for taking me along! I LOVE that sculpture – so personal!
Thanks Shel, glad you enjoyed the tour. Yes, I’m fond of sculpture too and I think this one captures them pretty well.
Thank you Jenny, you brought the house and landscape to life. An interesting read.
Thank you Diane. I enjoyed your post on The Pig.
Thank you Jenny, I love days out, writing and reading blogs and always look forward to your next post.
I haven’t been for many years. I think I’d like to back now after reading your post.
Yes, it’s always worth a revisit. There’s a special exhibition on at the moment to commemorate the fifty years since Winston died.
We visited Chartwell on our last visit to the SUK (semi-United Kingdom) – even blogged about our damp visit. Unfortunately it was a wet and gloomy day – it wouldn’t have helped with depression! But we really enjoyed walking through the house and studio. Thanks for this sunny-day view of the grounds.
We caught the weather that day just right – we were lucky – the month of May here has been unseasonably wet and chilly.
Thank you for the tour, Jenny. Your pictures are stunning. I’m glad you posted the arched gateway photo last, as I might not have been able to move on. There’s just something about a gateway that causes me to pause.
That’s the writer in you Jill – contemplating what’s on the other side. Did you ever read The Secret Garden?
Yes, I did and I loved it!
Beautifully written piece Jenny, he was an amazing man! I never got to Chartwell but over the years have read much about it. I enjoyed seeing your photos and took the opportunity to flick through the site too. You certainly had a gorgeous day out!!
Thank you Pauline. We were certainly lucky with the weather and although I am quite familiar with Chartwell, it’s always a pleasure to go back.
I agree with Pauline re your excellent description of this historic house which I have visited. I suspect your judgement about the painting is valid. Good photos too.
Thanks Derrick, that’s kind. I don’t want to be dismissive of Winston’s work but I did think that was a little over the top, especially as we were browsing recently through a forthcoming sale at Christie’s of Pre-Raphaelite art and the estimates for many of those was less than the million mark.
He was, as you say, a gifted amateur – but, boy, was he multiply gifted.
I read this in your Flipboard magazine. Excellent compilation and this was very enjoyable too.
Thanks! And I much appreciate you checking out the Flipboard selection too.
I loved the unique look to the exterior of the house. I also am so happy to learn your father’s position on the Royal Signals. This was an exciting job and able to carry messages to Sir Winston Churchill was something you may write a story about someday. I bet your father had some great tales to tell of countryside and unexpected events, Jenny.
I love the photos of the walls with ivy spilling over and the archway, which Jill so superbly expresses, it is hard to not just stop and ponder for a few moments. The arch is so lovely and your photos are professional looking, Jenny.
Well, thank you Robin. There probably is plenty of fodder there for a story or two, although interestingly, Dad never divulged much of what he did during the war. Perhaps that in itself is a story in the making … Hmm, you’ve got me thinking!
I’m glad you like the look of the house – I do too – and it doesn’t bother me one bit that it is deemed to lack architectural merit.
What do they dare mean, ‘of little architectural merit’ ? It’s Churchill’s and the pictures are wonderful, and it was so important to him, and that makes it of great merit, architecturally and otherwise! In 6th grade we did research on great men of the world (I know, I know…why not great women…sigh) and I got into a fight with a boy who also wanted to study and present Churchill. The teacher was wise enough not to flip a coin–we were both very determined 6th graders–so we presented the project together. I still have a little notebook of Churchill information and quotes packed away somewhere, so I loved this post, Jenny.
Haha, thanks Marylin. I can just imagine you brawling with that boy! And while your Mum would probably not have approved your method, I have a feeling she would have been impressed with your reason for being so determined to present a project on Churchill…
Wow, thanks for bringing this to us. What a vast estate. I am reading Suite Francaise at the moment, and it is very sobering to think of what Churchill saved us from. Thinking how “of the generation” it all is – the privilege of Churchill, the place he lived, but also an age where it was possible for a nation to be unified, and where people could believe absolutely in themselves and where others could believe absolutely in them.
I read that a while ago and didn’t get on too well with it so I’ll be interested in your thoughts when you’ve finished.
Chartwell’s not too far from you so maybe the place for an outing one day?
Oh yes I see signs to Chartwell from the main road sometimes! I’m about half way through Suite Francaise. I suppose I can’t help being influenced in my response by the knowledge that she was there and that she died, so in my mind it’s almost documentary, like an important read so that people should know what it was actually like to be caught up in the flight and the aftermath. Also the feeling that it’s like an adult version of Anne Frank’s diary. Although who knows how disproportionately the working classes were affected as opposed to the middle classes, and whether the behaviour of the privileged was really that bad… maybe it really was!
Denise – I’ve just finished “All The Light You Cannot See” which is a fictionalised account of the siege of St Malo. Thoroughly good read … you might like to put it on your pile …
This brought back many memories as I used to drive past every day on my way to college. I have visited quite often with NT. A lovely place with spectacular views. Churchill certainly did rally the troops – and thank goodness for that.
Now I’m intrigued. Which college, where were you living at the time? You’ll have to fill me in at our next meet up.
Thank you, Jenny. I would definitely want to go to Chartwell if/when I’m in England. I’m bookmarking this!
Is Chartwell far from you?
Definitely worth a visit. And while it’s not that far from me now, I grew up virtually on the doorstep, where my mother is still living, so a double reason for me to go that way!
I had to re-read Jenny – I thought your father had bought Chartwell 🙂 It looks to have been a beautiful day for your visit.
I know Churchill was human, made mistakes and wasn’t everyone’s cup of tea. There are people here in the CIs that naively accuse him of abandoning the islands in 1940 and for saying ‘let ’em starve.’ The reality though is that his strength of character carried the country with him and without his leadership we’d now all be speaking German.
Haha, I re-read that para objectively myself and can see what you mean which just goes to show that self editing doesn’t always work!
Unfortunately for the Channel Islanders, Churchill had bigger fish to fry at the time I suppose but you’re right – without his determination to keep Britain British the outcome for us and the rest of Europe doesn’t bear thinking about.
What a nice tribute to a great man. I shudder to think what would have happened in 1940 if Churchill hadn’t accepted the PM’s role. It appears Chartwell is well worth a visit.
Definitely worth a visit. And yes, thank goodness for Churchill’s leadership when the country really needed a strong and determined helmsman.
Imagine if Lord Halifax had gotten the nod. Not a happy thought.
Fascinating post, Jenny, and beautiful photography, as always. I never knew Churchill was a painter. Thank you for sharing. Hope you’re well.
He was a prolific painter. It’s quite well documented here how the painting would alleviate his depression – a condition he suffered all his life.
I’m very well thanks Gwen, hope all’s well with you too.
Thank you for this splendid tour Jenny! Beautiful! I’ve been fascinated by Churchill ever since learning in Primary School that he fought in the Boer War and went on (from his adventures in South Africa) to become so much more than a politician – such an inspiring man!
Yes, he had such a long and varied career which definitely left a lasting impact on our country. I wonder what would have happened though had he won the post war election to be Prime Minister.
What a deligthful post Jenny, so glad to be back here catching up with you. Did I tell you that whilst walking through the Jersey War Tunnels I heard a ‘Good Morning’ and there was Winston himself, cigar and all, with his entourage, walking past me a mere foot away? For a moment I seriously thought I had been transported back in time! Chartwell is now also on my ever-growing list, and who can blame the great man himself for not wanting to leave such a stunning view behind? Your lovely narrative and photos swept me along a beautiful walk, thank you for this lovely share and such a touching tribute, encouraging us to salute Mr Churchill. Rightly so, what a great man. And the archway photo is just delicious 🙂 So good to ‘see’ you again my friend xx
Well you are a good blogging friend Sherri, to back track this far, especially as you must have so many other blogs to catch up on – thank you!
It must have been weird seeing the hologram of Churchill in those tunnels.
Oh yes, try and get to Chartwell – the countryside around is stunning too – you could take a detour on your way to Lewes!
Glad you’re back with us Sherri😉
Well, I love your posts Jenny…and I would say just the same about you being such a good blogging friend too 🙂 And yes, I definitely will. Another one for the list whilst in the Sussex area 🙂
It’s lovely. As always, I’m struck by the whole sense of history. On a related note, not far from the University we have a place called Churchill Square and right by it is a small park that contains a fine bust of the great “Sir.”
I can’t tell you how much I appreciate your trawling back through my older posts. Have missed you in the blogging world, as I miss Dave and Joanna from Pairodox – I think they are in the throes of moving?
Work commitments have really been piling up and that’s made my posts less frequent although I did manage one point to each blog recently. Hopefully I’ll find a way to free up some time. As for Pairodox, yes I think a move is underway, but I think I as m going to email Dave next week just in case.
….and I thought the idea was to calm the work commitment down! Please send them my best – I’m missing his photographs 😀