The SSF (Sea-Sick Friend) and I were well overdue an excursion which we rectified this week by taking a trip into London by train, for old time’s sake. Long suffering readers will recall that SSF and I met years ago during our commuting days whilst stuck one evening on a stationary train going nowhere out of Waterloo Station. We struck up a conversation bemoaning the appalling service and haven’t stopped chatting since.
This week’s outing would not be involving water other than looking down on the Thames from a great height, which SSF assured me, was fine, although I think vertigo was mentioned. We were making for the Sky Garden – an innovative use of the top floor of one of the city’s less than attractive new buildings, known locally as the “Walkie Talkie.” This unwieldy looking skyscraper hit the London headlines in the summer of 2013 when the sun’s reflection beamed intensely off its mainly glass structure into the street below and melted part of a car as well as setting a shop doormat alight.
Undeterred, as our weather was positively chilly – even for early April, we decanted ourselves from the tube at Monument Station and hoofed the short distance to 20 Fenchurch Street. The lobby security was akin to any airport rigmarole – everything and everybody screened – this was dealt with deftly and provided a natural filter for the two available lifts. Whizzing ear-poppingly to the 36th floor in cramped conditions isn’t my most favourite thing in the world but it was over with so speedily there was hardly time to wonder about a staircase option.
The lift opens to reveal another lobby – tiled in black slate and containing state-of-the-art unisex toilet facilities. Now, if there’s one fear greater than getting stuck between floors in a lift, it’s becoming imprisoned in a public lavatory. Which, for what seemed like hours but was actually less than a minute, happened to me when the lock mechanism failed to release. After moments of sweaty trauma I was able to join SSF and step into the glass domed conservatory that is the Sky Garden.
The audible gasps are justified: this space definitely has the wow factor. The views over our capital city are amazing. The first area reached is the Cafe-Bar which is completely free to access although booking a time slot is necessary.
The mezzanine contains the Darwin Brasserie (For which SSF had booked a table) and above that, at the very top of the dome, is the Fenchurch Restaurant. Tumbling down the two sloped sides next to the staircases are cascades of tropical greenery. The air temperature is surprisingly cool but this is catered for with colourful throws and blankets provided in the seating areas.
Here is a great view looking east towards the Tower of London and Tower Bridge with the towers of the Canary Wharf business district in the far distance. (Best place for it…).
And here, looking west. The Post Office Tower, once one of the capital’s tallest structures can just be seen, top right while the London Eye to the left (or south of the river) and near to Waterloo Station is one of the city’s newest landmarks.
Looking directly south, The Shard towers over everything else. HMS Belfast can just be seen in the foreground. (Or should that be fore-river?) The outside viewing platform was sadly closed during our visit due to inclement weather. Surely a reason for another trip?
And finally, looking northwards – the “Cheese Grater” on the left and the “Gherkin” on the right. London certainly has its fair share of odd looking buildings – and judging by the amount of cranes dotted about everywhere, we are destined for many more.
So…the verdict: well worth a visit. We had a very enjoyable lunch in the Brasserie with a prime table by the window overlooking the Thames. After lunch we had a sneak peek up at the restaurant and decided that the Brasserie looked much the best option. The tables in the restaurant are too far back to take advantage of the views so we wondered what the point of eating there would be. Although there seemed to be a steady stream of people coming and going, there was no feeling anywhere that the place was overcrowded and I suspect that for health and safety reasons only a certain number are allowed in at any one time.
We left the building to stretch our legs around the city, taking in Leadenhall Market, Bishopsgate and Spitalfields before returning to the Underground at Bank via the Royal Exchange. This is SSF’s old stamping ground but for me, fairly unchartered territory – so a good day was had by all. With any luck there will not be such a long gap between this and our next outing – just deciding where to go is tricky – so much to see, so little time!
Wow, I wish I’d known about this amazing garden in the sky when we were in London 18 mos ago. On the other hand, as my husband just pointed out when I showed him your pictures, it wouldn’t have mattered because we would have been looking through clouds. The Eye was closed because even it was in the clouds! Great post, Jenny.
Thanks Jane.
Gosh, you were unlucky! I think you were here around October? It can be foggy then. The mist did swirl around while we were having lunch but our waitress assured us that it would blow over – and she was right. Shame that the outside platform was closed but it would have been mighty nippy on the day we went!
I had seen pictures of the The Walkie Talkie Building, Jenny, but your post took me along on a full tour. Wow! This was terrific. So much fun.
Thanks Marylin. Yes, definitely worth a trip.
I remember SSF, Jenny. I’m happy you stayed on land this time. 🙂 Thanks for sharing your spectacular photos. The Sky Garden looks incredible.
It was fun, Jill. I’d heard about it from another friend, as had SSF, I think. It doesn’t seem to do much advertising – I guess it doesn’t have to!
The London skyline sure has changed since my time there! And that building you call the ‘walkie talkie’ has always reminded me of an old Motorola mobile for some reason or other. I’m glad to see the interior is more beautiful – what fun that must have been exploring and then admiring those spectacular views! Though the Thames looks very brown Jenny, is that normal? I love that you and SSF have these little excursions together – keep ’em coming, just stay off the water!
It’s changed since SSF and I were working there too…mind you, that’s over twenty years ago now (ouch!) so I suppose it would have done. The new building going on recently though has been very swift.
Regarding the brown-ness of the Thames – it’s to do with Diatroms, apparently – I checked on the Environmental Agency website! Diatroms are microscopic algae found in sea and fresh water – they proliferate between February and April which gives the water the brown appearance. There, we’ve both learned something which may or may not be useful – particularly if we’re ever faced with a pub quiz question…😄
Thanks for clearing [heh-heh] up the Thames for me Jenny. I was last in your neck of the woods 25 years ago [I had to count on my fingers to double check that number – it seems so wrong!] and it feels like no more than 6 – 7!!
😆😆
That’s about the same amount of years ago that we were both commuting. Time flies, doesn’t it?
It’s been a while since I’ve been to London and I think I’d hardly recognise it! The sky garden definitely looks worth a visit – even worth getting locked in the toilet – well, no, that’s one of my fears too 🙂
The Thames skyline changes so often it’s hard to keep up. I’d definitely recommend a visit to the Sky Garden – just check the locks before you commit! I think my fear of being shut in small spaces stems from my cousin shutting me in the cupboard under the stairs. Well, that’s my excuse, anyway!
I never experienced the cupboard under the stairs, but my mother was sometimes shut in there as a child as punishment 😦
Gosh…like Harry Potter…
(Mind you, that was the best place for him…)
What a great day! I loved your tour. And got a chuckle out of the Cheese Grater and the Gherkin. Fancy them being so close to each other in space and culinary application. In the picture with Tower Bridge, what is the open space in the upper right? Thanks for writing about your day. Lovely pictures.
Haha, yes that’s funny! I wonder how many other of our new buildings will get associated nicknames😀
The open space in that photo is Southwark Park. I had to double check on Google Maps…where would we be without them!
Wow, it’s large. Thanks for checking!
Sky garden is definitely on our list fir next visit to London. Grear virtual tour, thank you
You’re welcome!
Be sure to book ahead of time – even for free entry, a timed slot is required.
Wow, those views are amazing! So is there any cost involved in going to the Sky Garden other than the price of lunch? I’m considering this for my next venture in to the capital.
I’m sure you’d find plenty to photograph Jude. Entry to the garden is free but you must book a timed ticket, so to be sure of getting in on the day you want, I’d do it ahead of time, just to be safe.
Good for you! I am useless at heights but son and family go there quite often and like it. I really enjoyed your piece and the photographs. The skyline keeps changing; I find the view looking west from Westminster Bridge to Battersea unrecognisable.
One or two of the shops in Oxford Streets now have “roof gardens” from which there are good views – just not much garden!
It’s like that right along the river – but it keeps London interesting, doesn’t it. John Lewis had a bit of a roof garden going on during their centenary. It used to be for staff only but they’ve let the punters in. Not sure if it is still in existence, but you’re right – the views from there are good.
Excellent tour, but no way would you get me up there. I started my working life in 1960 in Lloyd’s Old Old Building under a dome with no windows. I used to run up the Monument stairs, long before today’s heights had been reached.
We had a similar conversation while standing on the escalator steps. Back in the day it would be a challenge to get to the top as fast as possible without gasping for breath. Nowadays we are happy to glide along like the rest of the tourists and watch the stressed city types getting nowhere but just a bit faster.
It was always a time trial with a friend
What a lovely outing. I love the look of the Sky Garden in particular. The view is awesome. I didn’t get there when I visited London, though I would have liked to have done so. Sadly, the days were grey, overcast and drizzling by the time I got to hear of it. I would have had sweaty palms with the door not opening also, and probably would have panicked making it harder still to open. I share your fear of being stuck in a lift. I’m pleased you had a wonderful day!
I also fear getting stuck in a traffic queue on the motorway!
We were actually lucky with the weather – even though it was very chilly, it was clear for most of the time we were there, even a little sunshine. The clouds came down while we were eating but soon blew away. Glad we went.
These fears are the topic of my next post in response to Charli’s flash fiction challenge. I don’t like the idea of being stuck or trapped anywhere!
I await with anticipation of a sympathetic read!
I really only skim the surface – didn’t want to go too deep in case I couldn’t get out!
Great account & accompanying pics Jenny. You make London seem positively attractive. I’m pleased to have visited vicariously rather than have to actually go to that height.
Aha, do I detect a chink in the armour of a self confessed London avoider? I’m doing my best to present the capital in a good light – I know it has it’s faults. Thanks for coming along, Roy😀
I haven’t been to London in a few years – hoping to go again soon! Great post! 🙂
Well, I hope you do make it and fill your agenda with lots of fun things to do. Book ahead though, if you want to visit the Sky Garden.
” … an innovative use of the top floor of one of the city’s less than attractive new buildings …,” is an understatement. This construction would appear to fit a strategy of a sustainable future. Do you know anything about heating and cooling costs of the addition? Are they net-zero? A pleasing space to be sure.
I suppose the beauty is within! I don’t know about heating/cooling costs – I bet there is some sort of advantage. I looked briefly at the Greater London Council’s website where there is a push for greener spaces in our city – living walls and roof top gardens – you might like to take a look …
Oh Jenny, I’ve been stuck in both and a lift and a public toilet, so I feel your your terror, yikes! Hubby and I made it to London for our 10th wedding anniversary last month, thanks to my brother holding down the fort with Mum after her stroke, it was arranged well before and for a while I didn’t think we would make it, but everyone urged us to go, including my lovely mum. I’ll blog about it, but I wish we had known about the Sky Garden for the Saturday, what a fantastic place! Even though I’m not one for heights, it does look like a fascinating place. Thanks for the heads up, so glad you had such a lovely time with SFF…I’ll say it again Jenny, you make a wonderful tour guide and now I know where to go during our next visit to the city 🙂 Although I have to say, I’ve never known so much building works going on as this time, cranes everywhere as you say…
I can remember getting stuck in a lift when I was at college. Our Friday lectures used to be in an annex somewhere near Old Street in the city. We hated those lectures so overloaded the lift on purpose. It was one of those cage like things and we could see what was going on outside, but it came to grinding halt between floors. The janitor had to be summoned to crank us up by hand, he wasn’t very pleased, I can tell you! But at least we missed that lecture, which was the intention.
So, anyway, the Sky Garden could be a place to head for next time you’re both up in town…I’m curious about your workshop though – sounds intriguing😉
Oh that sounds horrifying, I’m getting chills just reading about it! But I like your thinking as a way to get out of the lecture! And yes, I will be telling hubby all about the Sky Garden this evening…can’t wait! I’ll share more about the workshop as time goes on, I’m as intrigued as you Jenny 🙂
You SSF sounds lovely and adventurous, Jenny. I was so happy to know of your serendipitous meeting. I like how fate brings couples and friends together!
Your views were all stupendous, but I did like the Shard, Cheese Grater, the Gherkin and the back on the ground~ arched, golden Leadenhall Market area.
The London Eye, London Tower and London Bridge were exciting to my eyes, Jenny.
Yes, we do have some fun outings together. When Son was a baby we used to do a lot of pushchair walking!
Glad you enjoyed my city tour. There will doubtless be others – we are always looking out for new things to do😀
I re-read my comment and think what I was talking about with “the back on the ground” comment was I meant to say, “once on the ground” (down from Sky Garden) the market photograph was beautiful and golden in appearance.
I love picturing your walking your son in what we call “strollers,” while chatting with your friend. I used to go with my friend with my first baby and she had her 5 year old daughter walking beside my baby. Her daughter would point out things and my daughter looked up to her. I still am in touch with her and yet, our meals are usually on ground level, Jenny. 😀
What lovely pictures. I’m a little envious (1) it’s London and (2) your weather.
…and I bet that only someone from Newfoundland would say they were envious of English weather and mean it 🙂
Thanks Maurice. Going by your recent weather pics you’ve every right to be envious of our sunshine. You must know that we Brits are obsessed with talking about the weather – it’s a national pastime😀