I expect you’re wondering whether the SSF and I have been on any outings lately, it being school holiday time and all. The short answer is yes, we have, and quite honestly two more contrasting excursions would be difficult to arrange intentionally.
The first involved a gentle drive through the countryside into deepest Hampshire. (Well, actually, just west of Basingstoke but I don’t want to spoil the illusion). SSF elected to drive on the basis that, as my passenger, she’d likely experience motion sickness and also that she knew roughly where we were heading whereas Basingstoke and its environs are undiscovered territory for me. All I’ve known about the place to this point is that we have frequently by-passed it on the M3 on route to the West Country and the fact that it commandeers several exits along the motorway suggests that the town has evolved into a large, urban sprawl. So I was pleasantly surprised as we passed through Old Basing to discover a small, quintessentially English village with very old cottages surrounded by much greenery. There is even an historically important ruin in the form of Basing House, once the largest private house in Tudor England. Sadly closed the day we ambled by, but worth a return visit, I’m sure.
Driving on through glorious farm land and speeding by the Bombay Sapphire Gin Distillery (crikey – it all happens in Hampshire, doesn’t it), we were headed for Whitchurch, a sleepy little village (and not quite as picturesque as Old Basing, it has to be said), to have a look at their Silk Mill.
Whitchurch Silk Mill is the oldest silk mill in Britain still in its original building. It was built in 1815 and production there, which included weaving for Burberry and Ede and Ravenscroft London’s oldest tailor and robes-maker, continued right up until 1985 when the mill was weaving fabric for legal and academic gowns.
After this time, work at the mill slowed and there were plans for buildings on the front lawn which caused a bit of local unrest. The charity, Hampshire Buildings Preservation Trust stepped in, injected some cash and set about restoring it.
Now, with added Heritage Lottery Funding, the Mill continues to weave fabulous silks still using the original 19th century machinery and is open for all to view. The admission is only £4.50 and for this you watch a short video on the history of silk before being allowed to wander at your will around this magnificent building.
And herein lays the weakest link. We wandered through the workshops and the winding room before looking through glass to see the silk being woven but weren’t really sure how the process actually worked because there were no volunteers or otherwise to tell us. The place was virtually deserted which was astonishing as in the winding room there were items that could have been easily slipped into a handbag and flogged as authentic at a Surrey antiques fair.
There is a quirky little cafe on the first floor with wonderful views over the gardens and the River Test but the counter service was laboured to put it mildly and a bit of confusion ensued over a black coffee and a cappuccino. We patiently waited for this to be sorted, ignored the delicious looking home-made cakes and opted for fruit scones instead. We couldn’t help thinking that a concession (I do not mean Starbucks) might help bring in the punters.
So although we felt that more could be made of the Silk Mill Experience – the Gift Shop was selling silk items but on closer inspection, these were all made in China – we had a good day out wending our way around the by-ways of Hampshire while we planned our next outing.
If we needed to prove that our tastes are nothing if not eclectic then our second trip provides testament. We went to the Saatchi Gallery in West London to view the Rolling Stones Exhibition, aptly entitled Exhibitionism.
For anyone who has grown up with The Stones – and that’s probably everyone on the planet – this show is a fun way to spend an hour or so, waltzing through the band’s fifty year career from the early days of obscurity to the stadium tours. There are nine themed galleries at the Saatchi combining over 500 original Stones’ artefacts peppered with cinematic archive and contributions from an array of contemporary artists (Warhol, for instance), musicians, designers and writers.
I particularly enjoyed the reconstruction of their first flat. They lived together in Edith Grove, Chelsea, when they were barely out of their teens and this reconstruction apparently has been created with careful reference to each of the remaining Stones. It was worthy of a Tracey Emin installation and depicts the abject squalor Mick and the boys lived in and where they began writing the songs that have since passed into popular culture.
There is also a room full of mannequins sporting the stage clothes worn on their various tours and what is most striking is how tiny these garments are. SSF observed darkly that the drugs were probably responsible. Close inspection of the clothes reveal the exquisite tailoring, the like of which I remember seeing several years ago at the Valentino retrospective.
Other rooms are filled with instruments from various decades as well as the art work for all the album covers, video footage of concerts and an interview with Martin Scorsese.
The exhibition culminates in another reconstruction – this time a generic example of the band’s dressing room and backstage space after which we are ushered through the ‘stage door’ to watch a video of their last London Hyde Park Gig. We all had to don 3D specs to watch the finale of ‘Satisfaction.’ It was possibly the next best thing to being there.
After all that excitement we stepped, blinking, into the sunshine, crossed the King’s Road and hurried into Peter Jones for a cup of tea.
Back in the real world.
Exhibitionism runs until 4th September at the Saatchi Gallery, Duke of York’s Square, Chelsea.
Two contrasting tours, well recorded. The first is more my cup of tea. Who is SSF?
Not a Stones fan then, Derrick? 😄
SSF stands for Sea Sick Friend. She is a friend I’ve known for nearly 30 years – we met as commuters when our train got stuck at Waterloo and we struck up a conversation and have been chatting ever since. She became SSF for these blog posts as one of our famous outings entailed a trip on a Thames water taxi. She had to take Quells and was looking decidedly green by the time we got to St Katherine’s Dock. I can’t for some reason persuade her to come with me on that Amphibious Bus that tours London…😀
Wonderful, Jenny. No, not a Stones fan 🙂
Ooh! Thanks for letting me tag along, Jenny. I would have enjoyed both of these tours. I’m a big fan of the Stones, and Hub is an even bigger one! It’s a pity the Silk Mill didn’t do better with the refreshments. They’re always important. And how comical for a silk mill to sell silk goods made in China. Isn’t anything made there any more? The colours on the spools of thread are gorgeous.
Enjoy the rest of the break. Where to next?
Nothing so far planned with SSF but we always come up with something, even if it’s just a local walk and trying out a new tea room😀
The Mill does produce silk, in small amounts but only, I think, for existing contracts. Pity they can’t sell on something in their gift shop – seems like a wasted opportunity to me😉
Enjoy your outings with SSF, whatever they be. Thanks for explaining SSF to Derrick. I’d been wondering too. I hope I remember!
It does seem like a wasted opportunity. Do they grow their own silk, as in have their own silk worms?
Sorry, Norah, I’d forgotten that I hadn’t explained SSF recently – she has featured before as my outing buddy. I’ll remember to add a bit in, in future for the benefit of my new(ish) readers 😀
We don’t have silk worms in this country, the climate is too cold. The mill imports the raw material from China.
Ah. Of course. I didn’t think about the climate being too cold. Silkworms are a common childhood “pet” here, and sometimes we have them in the classroom to watch the life stages, and sometimes wind the silk. I remember doing that as a child. At school we just let the moths emerge and didn’t bother too much about the silk.
How odd the silk mill was so desolate, Jenny. Your photographs are wonderful….the grounds of the mill are so lush in comparison to our drought ridden grass. Thanks for taking us along. I’m a huge Stones fan, so I would have loved the exhibit.
Who’s your favourite Stone, Jill? And do you have a fave track? Glad to know you’re a fan😀
So you have droughts where you are – we’ve been watching the dreadful flooding in the US on our news – if only some of that rain could be spread a little more fairly!
Wow, the silks are beautiful and what a hoot the Stones exhibition must be. Great tours.
Thanks Lisa. We certainly had two very enjoyable days out. Looking forward to more at some stage. SSF is on holiday now…
Glad you are back on tour. The name Basingstoke has always felt very industrial to me. So would never have thought of visiting. The silk mill sounds like well worth a visit.
I was never a Stones fan so quite happy to miss seeing how they lived in squalor.
I hope SSF was able to avoid the motion sickness. How were the scones?
I know, it doesn’t really inspire much, does it. Actually I have been there – so I remembered since writing the post. On a school trip – as staff, not student – we went to a Poetry Live Day at the Basingstoke Arts Centre. Now there’s something you weren’t expecting 😀 But of the town, I have no memory which probably speaks volumes.
The scones were more than adequate- we could have had clotted cream and jam with them but as it was only 11am we felt that was a little decadent, even for us.
SSF definitely was fine on both trips although she did report feeling slightly queasy while watching the sailing commentary from the Olympics 😆
Such a shame about the mill, ironic to be selling foreign imports. And it really should have some workers, what a waste! I think you should have gone to the Bombay Sapphire place – they have a stunning glasshouse there, but you do need to buy tickets in advance 😉 Next time perhaps?
Thanks for the tip(ple), Jude😉
Hello Jenny, nice to read of your outings with SSF and to note the SS bit doesn’t apply this time! The mill would benefit from having an entrepreneur on its board perhaps – the gift shop and cafe – complete wasted opportunities and no-one working the looms? Oy!! Stones exhibitionism sounds really interesting – even though I’m not that big of a fan – I think it was the pervading sense of squalor that followed them around in their early days …… 🙂 Great photos by the way!
Yes, definitely, an entrepreneur- that would help. And then employ a good creative PR/marketing type to get it going. Hmm, if I was quite a bit younger I’d go for that myself!
Ah, I’m surprised – I’d have had you down as a bit of a rocker, Pauline! 😆
I’m a Clapton, et al fan but just never quite got the Stones …….
Fair enough. Eric’s all right by me😉
I liked your stories in the past of your meeting SSF and this one added another double adventure! The high tower garden post was one of my favorites of the past, learning about the Gherkin and the Cheese Grater.
This time my interest was high in the silk mill. We have had several of our old mills for threads and textiles fall by the wayside here, mainly being “outsourced.”
The water with the walls along it, pretty flowers was a beautiful and serene scene.
The photograph with colors on spools and the threading across were gorgeous, Jenny. 🙂
I like our Rock and Roll Hall of Fame in Ohio, but also enjoy ANY display of memorabilia representative of a band or musical group. I like Keith Richards, but would be equally excited to see Mick Jagger.
My favorite (today) Stones song which feels like a sense of relief, I am not the only one who feels a bit disappointed in Life. . .
“You Can’t Always Get What You Want To” and my second favorite is “Jumping Jack Flash” for its pulse and beat. On other days, I would say a totally different set of top 2! 😀
Keith was always my favourite. The BBC screened a documentary about him recently, with interviews with him, talking about his childhood and how he got into music- it was really interesting. I’m not sure if I could pick out a favourite song…maybe Gimme Shelter for that haunting intro. But like you, depending on the day and the mood, I’d probably choose something completely different. 😄
Gimme Shelter is a really great song, Jenny. It does have an unusual beginning which is haunting in its tone and feelings evoked.
I LOVE going along on your excursions, Jenny. You write with a charming, real ability, and your pictures are wonderful. The silk mill details and excellent.
Wow, thank you indeed, Marylin, that’s such great encouragement. I’m always happy to have you along for the day!
I read these comments and learned a lot about your friends. The SSF also went to the high tower garden with you, right?
I like the Rolling Stones but especially like places with history and heritage. The mills in New England are starting to be either outsourced or too expensive to maintain. Your photos are always a treat! My favorite Stones song is sometimes, “Satisfaction” and others while raising my kids “Beast of Burden.” 😀
Yes, she did. As we were both London girls in our career days, we enjoy visiting the old places together😀
And this second comment of yours proves the first – you just can’t pin one Stones song down as favourite 😉
Jan is going to the Stones exhibition next Sunday! I’ll tell him what to watch out for. I have visited Old Basing to see a Michael Buble tribute act at the British Legion, so didn’t appreciate the surroundings so much 😁
Aren’t you going too? Even if the Stones aren’t your thing, you’d get a day out in the Kings Road😆
Well, like I said in the post, it all seems to happen in Hampshire, doesn’t it! I’m guessing it was probably dark when you went to Old Basing. I don’t remember passing the British Legion.
No, I’m not going. He’s actually going out for the day with his oldest friend for the day. They both played guitar in a band for about thirty years, so they can do a bit of bonding! 😂😂
I happen to have lived and worked near Basingstoke for several years – near Old Basing. It is a surprisingly interesting area. Next time you are there explore Roman remains at Silchester.
Pretty sure Son went there when he did A level archeology, but yes, there did seem to be lots to see in and around. The countryside is beautiful, of course. It always surprises me how the lay of the land can differ so much from county to county.
Jenny, this ramble was a real treat to read. I had no idea about this silk mill. I wish I’d known the last time I was in the UK. My academic gowns are from Ede and Ravenscroft from York U), and get lots of comments and questions at every graduation ceremony because they’re so different from North American gowns. You could turn your excursion posts into a column for a UK travel magazine. Or start your own! Thx.
Wow, now there’s a coincidence! There’s always next time Jane, if you’re thinking of another European trip😉
And thank you for your kind encouragement – writing about travel/excursions is the next best thing to doing them!
How interesting Jenny. I’ve always liked what I’ve seen of Hampshire. Love the quirky silk mill, especially its amateur curatorship – sounds well worth £4.50.
Winchester is a favourite spot of mine, but I particularly loved visiting Broadhalfpenny Down (Hambledon) where the game of cricket became popularised.
Oh yes, well worth the entry fee – and I’d have paid a bit more for a bit more information!
I like Winchester too, and the areas around – Stockbridge, for instance. Can’t say the same for cricket…😆
Oh … Joanna would have especially enjoyed the Silk Mill.
Do you know, I did actually think of you two as I was walking round, thinking that Joanna would appreciate the looms. She’d also be a good guide, I should think. I’m still not clear exactly how the yarn becomes a length of luxurious cloth!
I would have loved the exhibition of The Rolling Stones. Aside from being the worlds most successful rock and roll band, and this might be part of their success, they always worked and looked like they fit so well together. I would have loved to have seen their clothes. I saw them twice. First time in l975. And yes, they were small. Mick, with his top hat and jacket cinched in at the waist. Lucky you, to see a virtual playing of “Satisfaction.” Wow!!!!
Lucky you, to have seen them TWICE! I saw them in London in the seventies. My sister and her gang went to the latest Hyde Park gig where my nieces and nephew managed to get right to the front, near the walkway, so are probably somewhere in the video we watched at the show😀
That information will drive Doug into downloading the documentary. (There has to be one) And we will look for you in the crowd. How exciting! I may have seen them twice, but you saw The Stones where they feel the most comfortable, London. And up close. Wow!
There’s definitely a DVD of the event – my sister bought it for me as I didn’t get tickets! We saw the Stones in 1976 at Earls Court in London. Mick came down onto the stage on a giant lotus flower!
Oh you saw something special. Very. I saw them in 1975 with Billy Preston on a round stage in Philadelphia. He played “Sympathy for the Devil” in a top hat.
We’ll find the video. Of you!!!!
The silk mill sounds great but selling items from China had the crumblng teeth gnashing away.
Saw the stones at Roundhay (Leeds). They were good but my pesky mates giving me a lift decided to leave early and we’d waited bloody ages for them to come on. C’est la vie I guess. Along with the Dave Clark Five that’s prob my major concert coups. Well, unless you count Grapelli and Menuhin.
There’s always that decision to be made – to stay through the encores till the bitter end and risk getting stuck in traffic or missing the last train or leave early and miss the end of the best concert ever.
Dave Clark Five, eh. That takes me back. Bits and Pieces – I remember clomping around to that on a wooden floor in my mother’s high heels. 😆
Bits and Pieces. Brilliant. My little pony tail was shaking as I too clapped around on the floor in the floral pavilion. Still got the 45 so I can re-enact it whenever 🙂
Good grief, it’s probably worth a fortune. What about the pony tail though?
I’ve got some good singles. Loads of Beatles, DCF, Stones (of course!), Bachelors(?!), Sandie Shaw, Dusty, just loads. The pony tail? Still got it. Need it for stomping to DCF.
Yikes – a local silk mill selling silk from China! I wonder who thought that would be a good idea! Otherwise, it’s wonderful to see that it’s still running, and with original equipment, no less.
And Mick Jagger – did you hear that he’s lately had another child? I think the mother is only 25 or 26.
Great post. I missed reading you. 🙂
Well, those old Stones…they just keep rolling along, don’t they. But 26 is a bit young – could almost be his granddaughter 😕
It’s nice to have you back, and always good to chat. Glad you’re ok.