I had a free day the other week – nothing planned, the weather was good and I felt like an outing, so I trawled through my Art Pass Guide to find somewhere to go that wasn’t too far away. It didn’t take long for the name Stanley Spencer to jump out. I didn’t know much about him other than he was an artist (slightly eccentric) who’d had something to do with First World War paintings and who, according to family folklore, had taken tea with Dad’s artist cousin Walter Steggles on numerous occasions. It was time to check him out.
There is now a gallery dedicated to the man in his home town of Cookham in Berkshire so I consulted the map, checked the easiest route – there seemed to be several – and committed it to memory. I don’t have, nor do I want, a Sat Nav. While I know they can be an invaluable piece of kit, they are only as good as the programmer. They can default to the wrong place as we have discovered to our fury while touring in France and then Talking Woman gets increasingly agitated if you manoeuvre an unscheduled U-turn. So armed with a bottle of water, the map and my Art Pass, I set off.
Fortunately my sense of direction is reasonably accurate because when I arrived at Maidenhead, the nearest large town to Cookham, the lack of road signage is unbelievable. In my mind’s eye I had pictured Maidenhead as a leafy, broad-avenued sort of a place, stuffed full of expensive designer shops and delicatessens with willows bending towards the Thames. Possibly people in punts. In reality it is more like how I had imagined Basingstoke to be.
After an endless succession of round-a-bouts with choices to either go west for Reading or east for Slough (quelle horreur!) I ended up in a one-way system enjoying the sights of the multiplex cinema and a concrete shopping centre before thankfully peeling off through a residential area (still no signage) and ending up on the Cookham Road.
Cookham, by contrast, is a delight. Not quite a town but too large for a village, Cookham sits sleepily beside the river Thames.
There’s a church, a quaint little garage and the house in the high street where Spencer was born in 1891.
Just along from this is the tiny converted Methodist Chapel which now holds a permanent exhibition of Spencer’s paintings. It is packed full of them but manages to maintain an effective layout with plenty of information. Upstairs on the mezzanine you can watch a video of his life and works which I thought I’d dip into but I ended up watching it all, it was so interesting.
Spencer was quite a character around Cookham. He’d often paint en plein air, lugging his artist’s materials around in his daughter’s old pram. Many of his paintings depict ordinary life around the town and he included actual residents – not always with permission!
The exhibition I saw concentrated on his paintings of the natural world – I liked these – they are striking yet have a naïve quality. His colours are vibrant.
He was obsessed with gardens and what went on behind walls and hedges as well as using religious motifs and themes throughout his work. He married an artist, Hilda Carline, and they had two daughters. I was interested to see that one of his girls, Unity, has written an autobiography, providing an insight to living with this man but also who had had a very turbulent and artistic life of her own. Before I knew it, I’d spent two thoroughly enjoyable hours in this tiny space, studying the paintings and dipping into the freely available archive material. It was fascinating. I also discovered that the gallery opened in 1962 and was refurbished in 2007 through donations and a Heritage Lottery Fund grant which makes me feel that my purchasing of a weekly lottery ticket isn’t entirely wasted. The gallery is now a charitable trust, staffed by very knowledgeable and enthusiastic volunteers – I’d definitely recommend a visit and will more than likely return as long as I remember to avoid Maidenhead.
While at the gallery I learned that Spencer had been commissioned to create a series of murals at the Sandham Memorial Chapel in Burgclere, Hampshire and I was keen to visit. Spencer had enlisted in the Medical Corps during the First World War and these murals depict personal experiences of everyday life both in hospital and on the front line. The work, inspired by Giotto’s Arena Chapel in Padua, took him almost six years to complete.
Now, you may remember that my last post covering the Silk Mill outing took the SSF and me into deepest Hampshire, so it seemed the ideal opportunity to call in to Sandham on the way home. Which is what we did: the SSF is very accommodating. So after the Mill, we hunted down this tiny chapel, which wasn’t easy due once again to poor signage. Anyway, we eventually found the place opposite a reasonable looking pub where we stopped for a sandwich before we wandered into the chapel grounds.
Sandham is run by the National Trust. Their properties have a formulaic uniformity to them. The volunteers are of a type. The gift shops have a certain layout and although there are often local items available (pots of jam or honey, usually), once you’ve seen one, you’ve seen them all. They all sell tartan picnic blankets and small useless wicker hampers emblazoned with the Trust logo. They sell erasers in the shape of green welly boots. You get the picture. Unless you are a Trust Member (I am not), entry fees are expensive. Some are extortionate. Sandham falls into the latter. Occasionally my wonderful Art Pass will cover a Trust property. I always proffer my card to the volunteer cashier (sometimes I’m lucky) but usually it is regarded with snooty disdain and I’m offered the obvious alternative with a smugness that is definitely a Trust requirement – signing up there and then to become a Member. No thanks, I always say, wanting to add that I have no desire to add to their coffers which in turn allows them to turn our beautiful old heritage homes into themed opportunities with borrowed furniture of the time, contract carpeting and a re-enactor in every room. No thanks, if it’s all the same. I’m stared at as if I’ve just insulted their religion, which in a way, I suppose I have. Grudgingly I shelled out my £10 entry fee while being thankful that SSF got in for nothing because she is a member (and I don’t hold this against her. Each to their own).
A small room sporting story boards gives the visitor some brief information about the commissioner and Spencer’s work before you can then watch a short video doing much the same. Then you can get into the chapel itself which, I have to say, does provide more than a gasp factor. The place is naturally lit, the light being constantly regulated by a volunteer opening and closing blinds all day. The art work is truly amazing – the detail and extent of the work is breath-taking. These are all war paintings but not of suffering particularly, but of hope. Spencer apparently felt that toil would move him closer to God, something he strived to do all his life.
Our visit to Sandham probably lasted for a maximum of forty minutes and while I’m delighted to have seen these murals, £10 is still far too expensive. To cap it all, I was warned by Light Regulating Woman not to take photographs, so if you’d like to get an idea of Spencer’s vision, click here for a link to an article in Apollo Magazine.
Ah well, the Cookham Gallery was completely free to me, an Art Fund Member. Guess you can’t win ‘em all!
Incidentally, the photos in this post of Spencer’s paintings have been scanned in from the very excellent guide book I purchased from the gallery in Cookham for the very reasonable sum of £5.
An excellent introduction to one of our greats, Jenny
Thanks Derrick. The discovery was most enjoyable😀
Come friendly bombs? In two respects, Slough and WW1. I was stuck in Slough briefly. Waiting at the bus station to escape back home after we’d finished the Ridgeway and were bussing back to Beds. And bed.
I quite like Spencer. I went off the NT when they didn’t even give me an interview for a PR post. Snotty toerags. Never visited a property after that.
Precisely. Of course my assumption of Slough is purely based on Betjeman’s poem and the much newer comedy programme, The Office, which was fictionally set there. It could actually be quite nice, I don’t know.
I have a very good friend who was in PR/Marketing for the NT back in the days before children. She had a lovely time there but even she’s now dismayed at the direction it is taking. Still, I suppose we mustn’t forget the acres and miles of pathways they manage…
Betjemen wasn’t my fave A level poet, but that isn’t actually a bad poem. As for what I saw of Slough, I was content to wait for the bus out of there. Mind you in the other direction, can’t say Reading impressed.
My NT job ap was years ago. I’ve no idea how they are behaving these days. Badly by the sound of it. Is it still run by rich old white men?
Probably 😀
Thanks for taking us along, Jenny. I agree, Spencer’s painting are quite vibrant. The Cookham Bridge looks like I can reach out and touch the boats. I really like that piece.
Yes, so do I, Jill – it would sit quite well on one of my walls!
Mine too! 🙂
Oh my, you got it in one … the murals are indeed worthy of ‘gasp factor,’ thank you so much for including the link. Amazing. D
You’re very welcome. I’m glad you enjoyed the link, thanks!
Just checked the accounts of the NT – annual income of some £500m and staff costs of £200m. It’s vast. They seen to set great store on governance though so hopefully whatever faults there are might be small-ish ones. Our much smaller and separate National Trust of Jersey, by comparison, is well-regarded and well-supported financially by the public via legacies etc.
I should employ you as my researcher, Roy! Thank you for these details- you made me google the trust and discover a bit more about the running and the personnel- an interesting distraction! I know I’m in a minority – most folk are supportive, I just want to see REAL old stuff, not a facsimile. I think English Heritage do this with so much more integrity.
Jenny, you are introducing me to artists and countryside that are both new to me, and in such an entertaining way. I love it!
Ah, thanks Jane. Happy to help you discover new things too 😉
I love ‘The View from Cookham Bridge’ Jenny – it has everything I admire and wish I could produce in a painting. I’ve heard of SS before – probably from you – and would love to have a really good look at his church work. Your NT seems to exhibit all that is snobbishly detrimental to encouraging all people in enjoying art! Shame – it should be the other way entirely. Though I do quite enjoy reading your slightly acerbic thoughts about them 🙂
I agree – there is so much detail in his work when you start to look closely. That link to the church murals should give you a brief flavour of the chapel. I was really sorry not to have my own pictures of it, but there we go.
I think I ranted on a bit too long. Will rein it in in future…😆
I followed the link – I thought you would probably have taken better photos ….. It looks fabulous though!
Plus – rant away, don’t rein it in if it needs to be said 🙂
National Trusts everywhere are the same. They revel in the past and would like nothing less than to freeze progress. As for lack of signage, that’s an Anglo thing and so are lack of house numbers. It’s hell to find anything in Australia as well. Often the same road has two or three different names. One is lucky to get out alive.
Haha, hello Gerard, thanks for joining me on my rambles. Yes, our house has a name and my mother’s has a name and a number, just for more confusion …or maybe clarity, who knows. Glad to hear it’s the same down under.
The view of Cookham Bridge is lovely and the Chest of Drawers made me smile. We visited Cookham once on the way home to Haslemere from a weekend away in Oxford. We took a walk along the Thames there, but didn’t go in to the gallery. What a mistake! And I do believe we stopped off in Maidenhead by a lock. Thankfully the rest of the journey home is a blur. I find driving in the south-east far too hectic after 5 years in Shropshire!
(Is this the point where I confess to being a NT member and even thinking of being a volunteer? Or should I keep that quiet… )
Maidenhead? A lock? I obviously went through the wrong bit, but I’m certainly not going back for a second look, my opinion has been blighted forever😀
I promise not to hold your volunteering against you as long as you promise not to dress up as a medieval serving wench😆
haha… not my sort of thing, I was thinking more of weeding the gardens or potting up cuttings in a glasshouse 😀
Ah yes, that sounds good. But they might make you wear a smock…
I love your details, Jenny, the wonderful tidbits like his carrying his art supplies in the baby buggy. And of course his colorful paintings were wonderful. I’m so glad your personal sense of direction took you past the commercial buildings and led you to this charming place. 🙂
And guess what, something I forgot to mention in my post – that buggy was actually on display at the gallery!
Glad you enjoyed his paintings – thanks as always for coming along😊
Two more lovely places to visit. I know where both are but have not been inside.Both on my ‘to visit’ list.
I avoid NT places on price. I did belong, but unlike other organisations they do not offer bringing a friend in as a guest. For someone on their own this makes it pointless; I do not want the embarrassment of bringing a friend along and then asking them to pay, so avoid, avoid. Having said that I re-visited Grey’s Court at Henley (lunch there of course) for a lovely summer’s day out last month.
Yes, that’s a good point. The RHS allows a friend in for no extra cost – it wouldn’t hurt – the Trust would still get revenue from the friend in the tea and gift shop!
Never been to Greys Court…but Henley is a nice place to make for. I ought to put it on my never ending list.
The view from the bridge and the wall with flowers are extraordinary. I love the clarity and the color. And the chapel! Well, I’m glad you got to see it. It seems quite stunning from the magazine article. I was once approached by someone in a gift shop asking me to join the NT (it was pretty steep) and I thought as soon as I opened my mouth and uttered “Oh, thank you, but I don’t live here,” I would be off the hook, but the persistent lady suggested I might get all my money back if I visited enough properties. Needless to say I demurred. Thanks for the tour!
You see, they are nothing if not persistent! A foreign visitor would be hard pushed to recoup the membership fee in one holiday, unless they didn’t do anything else other than visit NT properties. Zzzzzz…..😀
I just thought she was a bit deluded about the time I was spending in the country…
Well, that goes without saying….😆😆
Hi Jenny, I know you are savvy with your computer skills, but something very Artificial Intelligence just happened. I was leaning forward not to miss a word of your post, thinking I should use such small print on my posts, and YIKES, the type became gigantic!!!!!!!(And still is) Well, I am not intimidated. I enjoyed this thoroughly. I liked Domestic Scene the best. Thanks. So your Dad’s cousin (did I read this correctly?) had tea with this man? Yes, to put art supplies in a pram for plein air work is a tad eccentric, but also practical. Now I am leaving the 1″ letters of your post. I have to do an emoji😂(looks great big)
Not that savvy😆
Yes, cousin Walter – Wally to the family – was an artist who belonged to the East London Group. He lived with his mother – Great Aunt Lizzie (she also painted), in Cookham at the same time as Spencer. They did meet up and according to the book now written about the East London Group, Spencer was envious that Wally actually had his own studio!
I like Spencer’s depiction of ordinary people, a mix of naive and endearing. And I like that he used village characters in some of his more serious religious works. I think he probably had a decent sense of humour…
The natural style of Spencer’s paintings with vibrant colors really are enchanting. I could imagine fairy tales or short stories using these to inspire and tell more from interpretation of his art.
I so loved how you talk about those calibrated technology car gadgets, Jenny. This makes me laugh when I head off to a place I know how to get to, when my “other” Jenny (Morris) listens to the directions instead of mine. 🙂
The entry to the second Spencer exhibit, has a unique natural setting. I like preserves. I probably have mentioned that at the end of “Miss Potter” movie with Ewan McGregor and Renee Zwelleger, the summary of her monies went to her country’s Trust, a large amount of acres! 🙂 This was said to be unique to be both a published female author and leaving a considerable amount of property to be preserved.
Oh, yes, they’d be great creative writing prompts, wouldn’t they?
I saw that Beatrice Potter film, she certainly bequeathed some lovely land and property to our National Trust. I’ve visited her farm, but ages ago. Time for a return trip, I think.
Apologies for late reply…I had formulated a response in my head but forgot to post it. This is happening more frequently…must be an age thing😆
No problem, Jenny! I just barely returned in the month of October! Chuckling at how you were blaming “age” silly! I had cataract surgery on the 28th and now feel rather old myself. Yet, I am older than you, I normally feel young, as we all do when free on vacation! 🙂
Mom turns 88 on November first, so this makes me have hope to live long. Happy autumn and thanks for sharing your trip to see Beatrix Potter’s home, as well as remembering or knowing about her trust she donated land to! Hugs, Robin xo
Thanks for the introduction to Stanley Spencer. I found more at
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stanley_Spencer
You’re welcome! And thank you for the link😊
What a wonderful post and photos. 🙂 I really enjoy going along on your explorations. 🙂
Ah, thanks Lynette. It’s always a pleasure having you along.