The short half-term break shot past in a flash even though I managed to pretty much fill it up with taking various jaunts to places I’d been meaning to visit. So with the SSF otherwise engaged entertaining antipodean amigos, I took myself off to Hampstead. (As you do).
I had a reason to choose Hampstead for my solitary outing. Two, actually. I’d been scouring my Art Pass guide book for ideas and discovered that there were two properties in Hampstead within a quarter of a mile of each other that sounded well worth a look.
I’d never been to Hampstead – at least I have no memory of ever having visited the place – which is mad really as it’s only a few tube stops northwards from central London. I emerged from the station on one of those crisp autumn days where the skies are forever blue, there’s a healthy nip in the air and the trees are beginning to emulate Joseph’s coat of many colours.
Passing and noting for later a promising looking coffee shop (SSF would be proud) I made my way to my first stop – the house of poet John Keats. Originally known as Wentworth Place, the house was built around 1815. From the outside it looked like one beautifully proportioned villa but the interior was originally divided into two separate homes and it was in one of these that, in 1818, Keats went to lodge with his friend, Charles Brown.
Most of the rooms in the house are accessible to the visitor and on arrival I was presented with an informative leaflet detailing the route I should take. Each room has plenty of information about the poet printed clearly onto boards.
The furnishings are sparse but give a flavour of the time. In one of the basement rooms a ten minute video plays on a loop, giving us a brief history of the poet’s life.
To say that Keats had a tragic life would be an understatement. His father died in a riding accident when Keats was eight, his widowed mother quickly married a man who proved completely unsuitable. Keats was sent to a boarding school in Enfield, north London where he stayed until he was fourteen and where he fostered a love of poetry and literature. His mother died of consumption so Keats and his brothers were looked after by their grandparents. Keats left school, took up an apprenticeship as an apothecary surgeon and began to write poetry which provided solace in his unhappy world. Around this time, both his brothers died and Keats went to live with Charles Brown where he met the love of his life, Fanny Brawne, who lived next door. With no family wealth behind him (that he knew about) Keats gave up his medical aspirations to concentrate on poetry and it was while living at Wentworth Place that he produced the abundant volume of work we are familiar with today. With his own health in decline (he too contracted consumption) he died aged twenty-five in Rome where he had gone to recuperate.
The gardens around Wentworth House are modest and well tended and are free for the public to wander in, sit a while and ponder. There is a small gift shop selling poetry books, tasteful cards and soap of a natural quality. Had there not been a noxious smell of evil boiled vegetables emanating from the bowels of the house while I was wandering around, I’d have given Keats’ House full marks.
My visit lasted around an hour and a half after which caffeine was definitely required so I wended back to the coffee shop I’d espied earlier and took my Americano across the road to the Heath and sat by the pond in gorgeous autumnal sunshine, watching the ducks.
A little way from here, just up the hill and facing the Heath was my next port of call. Number 2, Willow Road is part of a terrace of three Modernist houses designed and built by architect and designer Ernö Goldfinger. He and his family lived at Number 2, the middle house, from 1939 until his death in 1987.
Goldfinger is remembered for designing residential tower blocks, some of which are now listed buildings but at the time of their construction were controversial. Willow Road is built of concrete with brick facings and just scraped past the fastidious Hampstead planning department, causing outrage amongst the preciously exclusive locals.
Entry into the house is by timed tickets and for only ten people at a time. Thankfully I had had the foresight to book my place before buying coffee so when I returned at my allotted hour, nine other folk were hovering around outside waiting for the off. The National Trust is the custodian of 2 Willow Road and I have to say that this was one of the times that this fusty old institution got it right. It was bequeathed to the Trust by Goldfinger’s children and the furniture, fittings and artwork are all authentic. The house is stuffed full of modern art – Goldfinger was a collector.
Our guide was well informed and interesting. We were ushered into what had been the garage to watch a short video about the life and times of Ernö Goldfinger before entering the downstairs lobby where an extraordinary spiral staircase gave us access to the rest of the house.
Goldfinger also designed furniture – in particular chairs – and there are examples of his work here. The house would have been ultra modern for its time, with interior partition walls that could create different spaces by being pulled back or closed. The kitchen, however, is tiny and one wonders how his poor wife coped to entertain all the friends and celebrities who frequented the place. Everywhere you look there is art by someone notable: Henry Moore…Bridget Riley…Barbara Hepworth. The bookshelves are full of arty books and there are myriad miscellaneous collections on windowsills and tables. I loved it and didn’t know where to start and stop looking. Sadly, photographs of the interior are forbidden so I can’t share this cornucopia with you but if you ever find yourself in Hampstead, make a bee-line for this place – it’s wonderful!
Very enjoyable ramble through Hampstead. I particularly enjoyed the Keats house. While modernist architecture leaves me as cold as it looks, it sounds like the collections inside would be well worth a visit. .
They definitely are, Rod. And once you’re inside, you can’t see the building – just appreciate the panoramic view across the Heath that those wide steel frame windows offer. 😉
Now I want to walk in your steps and go to Hampstead, Jenny! Thank you for letting me tag along via your pictures and wonderful details.
Marylin – you’re always welcome to join me – anytime! 😉
The Modernist terrace doesn’t do it for me from the outside – look like 1960s flats above a row of shops – obviously one of those places you have to go inside and see for yourself. Wentworth House on the other hand is my kind of place – symmetrical 🙂 Thank you for the tours Jenny.
Yes, it does look a bit like that, I’ll grant you. It’s not the prettiest of buildings but I actually quite like it. The inside is full of clever innovations (well, at least for the 1930’s) and the view from the front windows across to the Heath is uninterrupted as it would be through a Georgian or Edwardian window😉
Can’t beat a good view 🙂
What a wonderful walk, Jenny. Thank you so much for taking us along on your tour. I don’t think I’d been able to peel myself away from that pond. That’s an absolutely gorgeous photograph!
Thanks Jill. I was lucky with the weather, wasn’t I?
How British, talking about the weather 😀.
It’s nice to know these houses are right there in town for the visiting. Thanks for writing about your visits.
Well, thank YOU, Lisa, for coming along 😊
Excellent post. You do get about, don’t you? I really didn’t like 2 Willow Rd, and think Mr Goldfinger has a lot to answer for – but then I’m old-fashioned and don’t like confined space and straight lines. The artwork is good though.
I like to explore, Derrick! I’m planning a few English road trips next year, so we’ll see what transpires. You’re like Jude and Rod above – they weren’t keen on Willow Road either and I admit that it’s not particularly aesthetically pleasing but I do quite like it myself. It’s probably better from inside, and his collection is marvellous.
I’m not a fan of tower blocks, by the way 😆
I certainly agree about the collection
What an interesting visit to make. I am afraid on my many trips to Hampstead, mostly in my youth, it was to the various pubs which I believe are still excellent. However, I do also have happy memories of sitting on the Heath looking over the London landscape. A wonderful place.
Well, there were quite a few pubs doing a roaring trade as I walked back to the station in the high street. Lots of cafes too with pavement seating. The high street had a nice feel about it, like a county town, but I was surprised that there weren’t more upmarket shops given the exclusivity of the place – as far as I could see, there were just the run of the mill shops Gap, Zara etc. And a Costa Coffee. They get everywhere, don’t they? 😀
What a great day you had – thanks for sharing it with us. 🙂 I have a bit of a soft spot for architecture and would love to see those places. 🙂
I did have a good day, thanks for joining me. I think you’d be fascinated with the interior of Willow Road, it was a shame I couldn’t take pictures!
I think the first looked wonderful. Would love it. Although not cleaning it. Obviously. Willow looks like a house up the street owned by a millionnairess (?). Planning in Gib is at a whim.
Nearest I got to Hampstead was when a friend lived opposite Primrose Hill. It was strange taking our dogs out for a walk at midnight out there, but actually quite nice. Said friend moved to a flat in Hampstead but I stopped visiting after that. There is only so much I can take.
Yes I know what you mean. Many of the properties I passed are enormous mansions with security gates…I’d imagine that many of them are owned these days by foreigners. In the old days they’d be the kind of houses that would employ Mary Poppins. And of course, they’d all have a cleaner or two. Probably a butler thrown in as well.
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Oops … sorry for that unintended single letter! Thanks for the trip to Hampstead. Although I hadn’t heard of Goldfinger, Keats is certainly a favorite of mine. Thanks also for the word of the day … antipodean … great!
Ha! I love playing with language, thank you! Strangely, I never studied Keats at school and he doesn’t feature on the modern curriculum either. For such a prolific poet, that’s something of an oversight, I feel😀
Thanks for taking us with you to Hampstead, Jenny, and what a lovely day for an outing. The pond looks amazing with the leaves in many colours (almost as colourful as your feature photo – it’s gorgeous!)
I didn’t get to Hampstead when I was in London either, but now I wish I had. I would have loved to visit these places for real. I did get to the Dickens Museum. It was well done too, and your description of the Keats home, reminds me a little of the way it was presented. Dickens had a much longer life though. How sad to have such a brilliant life cut short at just 25.
Well, I haven’t done the Dickens Museum, so there’s another place to add to my list.
The leaves and trees were lovely. However, having spent a couple of hours this morning raking them off my lawn, I rather feel I’ve had enough of them now for this year! 😄😄
I can understand that! 🙂
But they’ll be gone soon, won’t they?
It was good to accompany you on one of your cultural journeys Jenny, I always enjoy taking a peek inside these places that I’ve never visited and often don’t even know exist.
I didn’t know of either of these places until I was looking through my art pass guide book. I just picked on an area and selected places there I’d never heard of. Both of these were winners this time – however, I have had a couple of dud trips in the past that I haven’t bothered mentioning😄😄
Both the places you traveled to and toured sound marvelous, Jenny! Keats was far too young to die! Can you imagine how much more we would have of his poetic works? I just wonder if living such a tragic childhood wore down his beautiful heart(?)
The brick building looks very interesting and then, your description of the modern art items, as well as collections at every turn, made me wish I could have climbed upon a magic carpet ride and join you! 🙂
You’d have loved it, Robin…and so would your brother, I’m sure. Can you get a magic carpet for two?
Very interesting. Poor Keats. I had to look up SSF and it said ‘Saturday sausage fest’. I kid you not. Puzzled.
Hahahaha! SSF will love that! In my world it’s SeaSick Friend – so tagged because she gallantly accompanied me on a trip down Thames to see the flood barrier. She dosed herself up beforehand but was looking green by the time we got to Tower Bridge. To retain anonymity she is forever SSF, but a good chum nonetheless 😄
I didn’t realise Keats died so young. We spent long enough at school memorising ‘Ode to Autumn’ and sniggering about Fanny Brawne 🙂
And I bet you could still recite some of it now.
Schoolboys don’t change much. I’m doing A Christmas Carol at school and the lads think that Scrooge’s sister is hilarious. Her name is Little Fanny….
Hi Jenny! Glad to be here, apologies for the delay. Last week all my comments went to spam which set me back – again! Looks like you had an enjoyable half term, although old news I realise. Christmas isn’t far away now (I know, you’ll be telling me off for saying that!). Wentworth house is lovely, and i love your photo of the pond. Shame about the noxious smells though…were they actually from cooking vegetables do you think? You’ve educated me about Keats and his tragic family background. So young, all of them. You’ve peaked my interest in 2 Willow Road, although I would have just walked by it and not even noticed if not for your enthusiastic write up! 🙂 xxx
Ah, Sherri…so nice to have you back …and you know you’re always welcome.
I never did get to the bottom of those cooking smells- but it was like your worst school dinners memory and I couldn’t work out why anyone would be cooking…there didn’t seem to be enough staff around to warrant a joint cooked lunch. Maybe it was ghosts…poor old Keats, perhaps he was fed cabbage soup when he was ill.
Willow Road could easily slip by unnoticed…although it does look incongruous nestled as it is between Edwardian terraces.
I remember a long time ago having a free afternoon because I’d left my children with my parents (very unusual) and chose Hampstead for a wander round. I went to Kenwood House. I passed Willow Road but wasn’t ticketed to go in. I’d really like to go back – I remember it being pretty much as you’ve photographed it. It was Hallowe’en time because I remember stopping at a toy shop and wondering whether I should buy something from the display for my kids because I felt guilty for leaving them.
Hello Denise! I was thinking about you only the other week and wondering how you are – we haven’t had any book reviews lately!
It’s funny what we remember or associate with different outings. I’d imagine you’ll always associate Hampstead with Halloween and feelings of guilt…perhaps you SHOULD go back and eradicate the negative, emphasise the positive!
What a lovely setting for the Hampstead house, quite idyllic! As a fan of Keats I loved to think of him visiting this house – oh, he did have a rather tragic life but think this aided his wonderful creative spirit!
Yes I’m sure that his surroundings helped his creative flow. So often great artists, authors and poets have tragic lives. Creativity must thrive on misery😀
What a tragic life this poor person, John Keats had. But how nice to be able to be in his home and see how he lived. We have so little history in Atlanta (Its karma of having been burned to the ground in the Civil War still lives on as today, old buildings are torn down and replaced) And to see the architect Goldfinger’s home and be torn as to what to look at next, must have been thrilling. Very inspiring Jenny. I will have to go to more museums and historical sites that still remain here. Must be good fuel.
I loved that modern house – I’ve thought about it a lot since. I go out with a very good friend to exhibitions and museums. She loves all the traditional stuff while I prefer modern. We attempt to educate each other. It doesn’t always work😄
It sounds like it works!