Haven’t been blogging much of late. You might have noticed. Due to major engineering works on my train line into London during the whole of my long summer holiday, I was effectively grounded. They may well have been improving the platform lengths at Waterloo but this caused my cultural growth to be temporarily truncated. I wanted a break and I didn’t particularly want to write so I turned my focus homeward and spent my entire summer decorating, gardening and up-cycling old furniture. I had a thoroughly enjoyable five weeks, rolling out of bed straight into painting clothes, hair unbrushed and just getting on with it. More about that another time – I really must get back to some writing now the darker evenings are drawing closer – but for now, here’s a post I found yesterday, semi-forgotten and half written in my WordPress draft box.
And so it came to pass that, with temporary membership in hand, I left Sissinghurst (see previous post) and wended southwards to Lewes. Now Nationally trussed and fully paid up with guide book in glove compartment, I decided to check out Virginia Woolf’s house.
The journey took me through some stunning Sussex countryside and as I bowled happily along the A27, listening to my Rolling Stones compilation with my intended destination only a few miles away, I remembered somewhere else I needed to see first. A couple of years ago I visited Charleston – the beautiful home of Bloomsbury Group artist Vanessa Bell and, not so coincidentally, the sister of Virginia Woolf. The place was so enchanting that I ran out of time to see nearby Bewick church, the interior of which was decorated by Vanessa, her son Quentin Bell and her lover, Duncan Grant.
I turned off the main road down a very narrow country lane and found the tiny church behind an old stone wall.
There was no one about; I had the place to myself.
From the outside, the building looks pretty much like any other small rural country church, but inside is a wonder to behold.
Not only are the walls adorned with these fantastic murals, the pulpit also retains its original Bloomsbury design.
Pleased I’d made the minor detour, I sallied forth (I’ve always wanted to say that: it seems to fit in here) to the tiny village of Rodmell, just south of Lewes in East Sussex. It was devilishly difficult to find. Usually there are plenty of brown signs indicating a tourist attraction but there were none. I’d consulted the map before I’d set off. When I say map, I mean a paper one. I don’t have or want a Sat Nav although I do use Google Maps to help plan a journey beforehand but on the road I stick to my trusted old, much thumbed, AA version that is unravelling from its spring binder. The old-fashioned way worked a treat. At the end of a narrow village lane, encrusted with soil deposited by recent tractor wheels, I discovered Monks House, the 17th century country retreat of Virginia Woolf and her husband, Leonard.
The house is small and unassuming, set in a garden which was a riot of colour when I visited. Bought by Virginia and her husband during the 1920’s as a bolthole from their increasingly busy London life, the couple added to and improved the house over the years until in 1940, they began living there full time after their London apartment was damaged during wartime bombing.
The living room is a mismatch of colour, pattern and styles…but it works.
The delicate painting on the backs of these dining chairs is the work of Virginia’s sister, Vanessa Bell.
And I can’t resist a jumble of plates and miscellanea on an old dresser.
Virginia’s bedroom is approached by its own door from the outside – an extension to the original building. One immediately gets the sense of her own private domain. It is a shame that none of the books filling the shelves actually belonged to Virginia – especially as the volunteer guide cheerily informed me that when the Trust took the place over the house was crammed full of the couple’s reading material: it literally was stacked all over the place, their shelves having long since proved inadequate. On closer scrutiny of the books displayed, I discovered that most of them were titles printed after Virginia’s death. This kind of lack of attention to detail really infuriates me so when, later on, I was wandering around the garden and another kindly volunteer, dressed as who I can only assume was supposed to be Lytton Strachey, asked me if I’d like to listen to his reading of part of one of Virginia’s novels, I declined.
Above – two views of the stunning garden and out to the orchard behind. Beyond this is the river where, on 28 March 1941, Virginia drowned herself by wading out, her pockets filled with pebbles.
This painting of Virginia by her sister, Vanessa Bell, hangs in the living room of the house. I wondered what her state of mind was when it was painted. She has a troubled look doesn’t she? She struggled with depression all her life.
As I left the peaceful village of Rodmell and drove home on a glorious early summer evening, I pondered the link between depression and the highly creative. It seems to haunt so many people who have brought great art (in whatever form) to the world. I found this article which made interesting reading.
There is, it seems, a high price to pay for prolific creativity.
Now back to my furniture…
Lovely to read your works of writing again:-) I have missed them! Lots of love and best wishes from your writing mentee. Samantha xxx
Hi Sam! I think we mentored each other. I’ve been waiting to find anyone as able as you to get the best from a bottom set. Have only recently found parity – from a department head! So believe. 😉
Btw- The Pygmy Giant is accepting work again – if you have any short stories you should give it a go😀👍
Nice to see you back and to hear you spent the summer being creative yourself – which I think is just as important as admiring others work…… Creating oasis of calm and beauty is a sure fire way of lifting the spirits in my experience.
Thanks Pauline. I’m not sure I’ve created beauty, but rediscovering painting is a sure way to find the calm – and I’m quite pleased with the result. Now I’m scouring junk and charity shops to find other things to “improve.” This could become an obsession. I’m thinking of tackling decoupage next.
I’ve decoupaged stuff – it is a lot of fun and becomes quite addictive!
Yes, I can imagine it does👍😀
How wonderful of you to take us along on your outing, Jenny. As usual, your photos are fantastic. It’s great to see you again! I hope you and the family are well. xo
Thanks Jill. We’re fair to middling as they say, ticking along, as you do😀 It’s always lovely to hear from you. How’s the next book coming along? 😉
I’m happy to hear all is well, Jenny. My second book is tentatively scheduled for release next September. Yes, things move slowly in the publishing world. Thanks for asking! Enjoy your weekend! 🙂
You too!
OMG, I really enjoyed this entire post, Jenny. Just filled with treats! And I loved one of your phrases early on, “… caused my cultural growth to be temporarily truncated.” Sounds like it was a productive temporary truncation! 😉
Thanks Jane! Yes, it was pretty productive and I’m quite pleased with the results. The only snag is, once you start decorating, everywhere else looks tired, so you just have to keep going…it’s a good work-out, too, so I guess it’s a win-win situation. Doesn’t leave much time for writing, though…
Thanks Jane. I did have a productive summer – I can feel quite smug with myself, I think. And if the trains had been ok, I’d have been swanning off all over the place, not getting things done😀
How delightful to see you pop up in my Reader today, it has been a week of meeting old blogger friends. I have still to get to Charleston and the Bewick church, so it is lovely to see your photos of it. How nice to have it to yourself. The garden of Virginia Woolf’s house looks beautiful, but it is a shame they didn’t keep her books to dress the house with. I’m sure your own house and garden look spectacular now after a summer of love and creativity 🙂
Thanks Jude, it’s been a while, I know, but I’ve kept up sporadically with reading other blogs and I’m impressed by your output, I must say😉 I think you’d love both Charleston and Monks House – good photo fodder
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A great post and I love reading about anything to do with Virginia Woolf.
Thank you Gerard. Didn’t realise you are a Bloomsbury fan too.
Hi! Good to see you again. 🙂
Actually, I was thinking of cutting off my ear … No. Not really. I don’t think it would improve my writing. 🙂
Thanks for taking us along and sharing your lovely photos. It’s such a shame that she felt so ill.
Hi Lynette, thanks. That’s what I mean – these poor tortured souls. I read a book about Van Gogh’s ear recently – new evidence and all that. Very interesting but still very sad.
When I used to be religious, Berwick was in my group of three parishes and I have played the organ there and helped organise children’s nativities :-./
You chose a great part of Sussex! I have never been inside VW house, only seen the garden, and the festival has some really interesting speakers.
Good to see you posting again – do you have any pictures of your furniture???
I think I meant to say my parish of three churches included Berwick. It’s a long time ago that I even thought about it!!
Hi Denise – nice to hear from you – I know I haven’t posted much lately but I thought you’d fallen off the radar😀
I love your part of Sussex – I’m hoping to make a return trip to visit Batemans and the home of Lee Miller (can’t remember the name off hand). I did wonder, as I was sitting in Costas in Lewes, whether you were anywhere nearby 😀
And sorry, no I don’t have any furniture pictures. I suppose I could take one and show you the finished article but what I really should have done was snap them before I’d started. Then at least the transformation would be apparent. 😐😉
I still read blogs (especially yours!) although I don’t have time to post as I’m chairing two school governing bodies and sitting on a third… If you go to Lewes again, Bun and Bean do a great flat white, or nearer the Costa end Le Magasin is a pretty place to go. Next time you start any more pieces, I’d be really interested to see pictures. Oooh Lee Miller Farley Farm at Chiddingly. If you can, do the whole tour! The four hours just flies by.
You’re so kind! And madly busy, by the sounds of it. I’ll make sure I look out those coffee shops next time I’m down your way. And thanks for the Farley tip. I see from their website that they close at the end of October so I may have to wait till next spring to do that visit.
Thanks very much for this, Jenny. As our son Matthew and his family live in Upper Dicker, I have visited Charleston more than once, but you have opened more doors.
You’re welcome, as always, Derrick. I think you and Jackie would love the garden at Monks House.
Jewels on our doorstep. We need never leave the British Isles. The last person to bowl happily along the A27 was Mr Toad, I think. That church is a gem isn’t it? Those substitute books are annoying though – I wonder what happened to the originals?
You’re so right. I need to renew my passport soon and part of me wonders why I’m bothering 😄
The church is a gem – nicely tucked away yet accessible to all.
The books were sold when the house was taken over apparently. There were hundreds of them.
I’ve done a fair bit of decorating this year and I can’t say I’d call it relaxing, but good for you to find pleasure in it 🙂 These look like a couple of hidden gems – the house seems familiar to me from dramas I’ve watched. I envy the ability of some people to put a lot of mis-matched things together and make a great-looking home!
Oh so do I, Andrea. Designer chaotic muddle is something that takes ages to perfect but which looks as if no one has ever bothered. Very clever – and, like you, I’m nowhere near achieving it! 😆
I’m glad you’re back; I’ve missed my fix of erudite English country life contemplations. 😉
That said, I’ve often wondered about the connection between depression and artists. Would, say, van Gogh have been anywhere near the talent he was without depression, for example? I have no idea, but it he almost certainly would have been a different artist. What a price to pay, though.
Hey, thanks, that’s very kind.😊
And yes, what a price to pay. And whereas poor old Vincent struggled, never selling a painting till after he died, others who are brilliant, hit fame for their creativity too early, can’t handle it and turn to substance abuse. (Hendrix, Cobain, Basquiat, Winehouse…the list goes on).
I couldn’t help but be the last one here, Jenny. . . entranced with reading about your art projects and rolling out of bed to start them, straight-away~ just made me smile!
😊🙂
I have been working a lot of hours since about April and keep hoping for a reprieve. . . 104 hours for 2 weeks work and now, today getting ready to head into the warehouse for my once a month mandatory “sentence” of Saturday.
Anyway, I liked reading books this summer and did six book reviews on my blog. You were so kind to drop by and hopefully you found a comment, checking in on you.
I found an old portrait of my grandmother with her relative, it says Great Uncle Calder on the gentleman’s and her picture. I haven’t posted about it but it was so beautiful to find a photograph among my Mom’s stuff.
Happy Autumn and than you for the beautiful thoughts about Virginia Woolf. Why on earth they didn’t keep the books found while left by her and her family, safely in place?
I think it is fascinating to see the beauty and treasures and wonder about lost souls and their points of no return. . . Was it the Hours which delved into a few lives affected, one was V. Woolf’s? Beautiful but sad, great cast. xo 💖 💐 Hope all continues in your art projects and furniture improvement works. So industrious and worthwhile!
Hi Robin! There’s something very liberating about just rolling out of bed, into shabby clothes and getting on with it!
You must post about your grandmother and great uncle- family history is such exciting discovery. My son recently found out, while doing some research on my grandfather that he had a brother who died in The Battle of the Somme- and the family had never spoken of him! Now we are imagining all sorts…so perhaps I should blog about that 🙂…or it might make a jolly good story.
I’ve been reading lots too – always such a joy. I’ll do a review or two soon, maybe.
Happy Autumn to you, too by the way, I have a friend here who will be returning to her hometown to live soon – Cleveland Ohio😉
Cleveland, Ohio is such a great place! 😉 Rock ‘n Roll Hall of Fame, Great Lakes Science Museum and the Beck Theatre. . .
The fine art is wonderful and one whole wall of a huge Monet of lily pads, you feel like you could fall into it! There are a lot of changes downtown since we had our Public Square make it into the Avengers movies twice. There was a scene with ballet patrons running amok due to the battling members of the Avengers. Hugs and let me be the first to wish you a Happy upcoming Winter.
My post (11/25/17) will have a link to visit your blog. I’ll write your Twitter and Flipboard details out, too. Huge hugs! xo I think family is a good reason to share on Thanksgiving here.
Hi Robin. Thank you so much for the link. I’m being very lazy about blogging at the moment – so much else going on and things to do 😀
I found this link https://news.artnet.com/art-world/complaint-filed-against-calder-foundation-in-french-court-1133879
Which I thought you might find interesting. Happy forthcoming thanksgiving 🍾
Awww, don’t worry I added your tweet and Flipboard too. 💕 Thank you for the wishes for a happy Thanksgiving, Jenny.
Oh, this article was interesting and not sure why I didn’t realize it’s content was valuable information. Sorry, I must have skimmed this! Thank you! xo 💐
than = thank you! 🌹
I’ve hopped over via Robin and I am very happy that I did. I shan’t tire you with a long comment – safe to say I loved this reminder of what I love about your part of England (I have family in Sussex and spent happy times growing up and they with us in Berkshire) and that I must take a detour when I next come out of the Eurotunnel in Folkestone … thank you 🙂
Hello! How lovely to meet you, thank you for following the link from dear Robin’s blog.
Yes, do take a detour if you can and, if you have the time, go to Charleston farmhouse too. This was Vanessa Bell’s house and is stuffed full of her art work. It’s further down the A27, towards Eastbourne.
I certainly will …. I remembered that I have good friends who have just moved to the Sussex coast also so I feel that a couple of days detouring enroulé to or from Folkestone will be good for the spirit and I will certainly included Charleston too. Thank you so much for the steers 😊
Hi (from Robin) – thanks for the view of Wolfe’s country home! I love that part of England.
Hello! Sorry I’m so long in getting back to you. Thanks so much for taking the time to call in here. Glad you enjoyed Virginia’s house.
What a marvellous blog! Thanks for sharing this. 🙂
Thank you so much, both for stopping by and for the lovely comment.